Actor Robert Pattinson took center stage at Dior Homme's menswear show in Paris that celebrated the styles of Britain's iconic retro club, The Haçienda - against a theatrical fairground backdrop that had celebrity attendees gawping. Kenzo, too, paid homage to legendary retro clubs in a show dedicated to the flamboyant styles once worn at New York music venues. Here are some of the highlights of the spring-summer 2017 collections from the Paris show that ended yesterday.
Designer Kriss Van Assche explored the daring-styles of the attendees of the iconic Manchester club Haçienda, known in '80s Britain for its role in the rise of rave and acid house music. The show's decor, myriad swirling black metal bars speckled with lightbulbs, added a surreal, almost eerie, air to the collection - channeling the kinesis of an imagined fairground, and perhaps even the atrium lights of the Haçienda club itself. It made for a fresh and impressive spring collection. "I am interested in a synthesis of generations and filtering subcultures through my own lens to tell a new story," Van Assche explained. Suits rebelliously broke free from their traditional shapes - a way to "warp perceptions of formality," according to the program notes.
Retro nightlife was also the inspiration for Kenzo's spring show, which was probably the most fun guests have had so far in Fashion Week.
The designers stepped back in time to '70s and '80s club life to celebrate the myriad New York venues that created legends, such as Manhattan's Sound Factory.
Attendees were tapping their feet contagiously to many of the tracks such as Musique's 1978 hit "Keep on Jumpin'."
The outlandishly colorful show merged the soundtrack and clothes seamlessly.
Sporty cropped high-waisted shorts mixed with jackets and bomber jackets - in intentionally-clashing color-blocked hues of blueberry and neon yellow. The designs were inspired by the styles often worn by artists on the covers of vinyl records from the era.
Hermes' color blocking
Could color blocking be officially back in vogue? The trend that went stratospheric a few years ago, only to disappear, was featured in Kenzo's collection, and later in Veronique Nichanian's evening show for Hermes: a highly influential Paris house. Color-blocking is the style of using opposites on the color wheel and twinning them in panes of contrasting, or complementary color. Vivid titanium yellow jackets, T-shirts and pants were all blocked with tastefully contrasting hues of lilac, smoky black, caramel and golden brown. The styles deliberately draw the eye in, so they need a certain level of confidence on the part of the wearer. It was also ubiquitous in the 2016 resort collections.