Beyond stopover: Türkiye's Afyon enchants tales of jazz, history, wellness
Historical Afyonkarahisar houses and Afyonkarahisar castle, Afyon, Türkiye Feb. 1, 2023. (Shutterstock Photo)

From its vibrant jazz festival to its ancient landmarks and therapeutic thermal waters, Afyonkarahisar offers a unique blend of history, culture and gastronomy waiting to be discovered



Imagine a city. It is only known as a stopover when traveling from one city to another, but it has never been appreciated enough for its worth.

A crossroads. Yet a city of rich history with its thermal springs, and natural beauty nestled between the majestic Taurus Mountains: Afyon or Afyonkarahisar.

23 years old jazz festival

The 23rd Afyonkarahisar Jazz Music Festival was a remarkable celebration that united both the legendary pioneers of Turkish jazz and the vibrant Czech jazz community. The festival, graciously hosted by NG Afyon, showcased a diverse array of jazz ensembles, each presenting their unique and ambitious artists on stage.

After an exhilarating performance, I had the privilege of engaging in a delightful conversation with the Bladderstones team. Comprising Tomas Frolik on guitar and vocals, Johnny Judl on bass guitar and lead vocals, and Michael Nosek on drums, they mesmerized the audience with their original compositions, inspired by the band's own anecdotes. As accomplished educators, their musical prowess shone through captivating guitar solos and innovative soundscapes. However, the festivals not only present performances but also hold various school activities to bring students together through music.

The Czech jazz band "The Bladderstones." (Photo courtesy of The Bladderstones)

A pleasant surprise awaited me as I discovered drummer Michael Nosek's fondness for Turkish tea. Following their concert, I took the opportunity to share some tea-brewing suggestions with him, adding a touch of cultural exchange to our conversation.

The presence of Yalvaç Ural, former editor of Milliyet Newspaper and a respected author in the realm of children's literature, added an element of excitement to the jazz festival. Those belonging to the '90s generation, like myself, are sure to remember the joyous childhood moments provided by the children's magazine "Miço," for which Ural served as the editor-in-chief. This cherished publication entertained countless children with its weekly toy giveaways and a delightful assortment of cartoons that sparked our imaginations.

Historical landmarks

Afyonkarahisar, like in other regions, has somewhat overlooked its rich cultural heritage. Firstly, it is home to the first dervish lodge established in Anatolia. This lodge, dating back to the 13th century, holds significant importance as one of the prominent dervish lodges following the Mevlana Lodge in Konya. The Afyonkarahisar Dervish Lodge, particularly during the 16th century under the leadership of Sultan Divani, a seventh-generation descendant of Mevlana, served as a crucial center for Mevlevism.

In the heart of the city, atop a volcanic rock mass standing 226 meters high, lies the Afyonkarahisar Castle. It was utilized as a fortified position during the Arzava Campaign by the Hittite Emperor Mursili II. in 1350 B.C. and bore the name Hapanuva. The castle witnessed significant conflicts throughout the Byzantine and Seljuk periods. Although I have only been able to observe it from a distance, I was astonished by the construction of such a castle at such a height. It is rumored that climbing approximately 600 steps is required to reach the castle. Additionally, a city legend has spread among the locals, stating that those who ascend the castle will have to reside in Afyon for five years.

Afyon's Phrygian Valley, or Frig Vadisi in Turkish, is a historically significant region located in the province of Afyonkarahisar in Türkiye. It is named after the ancient Phrygian civilization that once thrived in the area. After our Kerouacian drive through the enchanting fields of Afyon, we, accompanied by Peter Dore, one of the beloved writers of our page and a resident of Afyon, explored the village of Ayazini together. This historical place settled by Phrygians, ancient Romans, Byzantines and Seljuks with dwellings, churches and tomb chambers in rock-cut architecture at the archaeological site is said to maintain its importance as the world's first apartment where King Midas' daughter "Suna" continued her life after returning from the healing waters of Gazlıgöl, where she went to find a cure for her illness.

A Muslim cemetery in the Ayazini village of Afyon, Türkiye. (Shutterstock Photo)

The Turkish-style toilet (alaturca) is also said to be the oldest in the world as it was placed in one of the dwellings in the area.

Another notable site in Frig Valley is the ancient city of Midas City (also called Yazılıkaya in some sources). This city is believed to have been the capital of the Phrygian Kingdom and is associated with the legendary King Midas, known for his mythical "golden touch." Visitors can explore the ruins of the city, including the acropolis, city walls, royal tombs and other architectural remains.

Healing by thermal waters

One of the most noteworthy natural wonders that Afyon offers is its thermal waters, which perhaps deserve the utmost recognition.

The city's thermal waters have a long history of use, dating back to ancient times. The city sits atop a geothermal zone, making it rich in natural hot springs. These thermal waters are known for their therapeutic properties and are widely appreciated for their potential health benefits.

The hot springs in Afyon offer a range of temperatures, catering to different preferences. Some springs provide cooler waters, while others can reach higher temperatures. The temperature variations allow visitors to choose a hot spring that suits their comfort level.

A scene from the poppy fields, Afyon, Türkiye, June 2, 2023. (Photo by Buse Keskin)

The thermal waters of Afyon are popular for their therapeutic effects on various ailments. Many people believe that immersing themselves in these hot springs can help alleviate conditions such as rheumatism, arthritis, muscle pain and respiratory disorders. The warmth of the water can promote relaxation, relieve muscle tension and improve blood circulation. Additionally, the mineral content is thought to have beneficial effects on the skin, supporting its health and vitality.

As someone who has experienced thermal water for the first time, my personal experience aligns with the significant reduction of stress that this experience offers. In addition, the spa area provided by NG Afyon Hotel contributes greatly to this therapeutic effect. Furthermore, for many people living in big cities, staying amid endless green plains rather than tall buildings and being surrounded by lush nature all of a sudden is a great blessing for those seeking peace and tranquility.

Englutting dishes

When you mention a gastronomy city in Türkiye, Gaziantep is usually the first to come to mind. However, even though it may not have been explicitly labeled as such, I can easily say that during my four-day stay, Afyon is definitely, and I mean definitely a gastronomy city. Its pure, creamy, snow-white clotted cream, Turkish delights, sucuk (sausage), meat-based dishes, I believe the list is endless.

Especially the meals served at NG Afyon Hotel were unique to Afyon, featuring flavors that are more locally rooted. Besides everything being incredibly delicious, I also encountered a distinctive snack that I had never tried before. It consisted of a crunchy top layer, mixed with honey, hazelnuts and pistachios, and beneath it was a treat made of couverture chocolate (available in white and milk chocolate options). When I asked the chefs about it, they said they had created this authentic treat through their own experiments and named it "Florentinç."