Gaza's cultural heritage ravaged by Israel's heavy bombardment
This combination of pictures shows Gaza City's historic Hammam al-Samra, which used to be the only active traditional Turkish bath remaining in Gaza, located in the Zeitun quarter of the old city before it was destroyed in Israeli bombardment. (AFP Photo)


Anthedon, the ancient Greek site in Gaza, has suffered bombing, resulting in the destruction of its renowned "Napoleon's Palace" and the burning down of its sole private museum. The conflict has exacted a devastating toll on the cultural heritage of the Palestinian territory.

But in a strange twist of fate, some of its greatest historical treasures are safe in a warehouse in Switzerland.

Ironically, it is all thanks to the blockade that made life in the Gaza Strip such a struggle for the past 16 years.

Based on satellite images, the U.N. cultural organization reckons some 41 historic sites have been damaged since Israel began pounding the besieged territory after Oct. 7.

On the ground, Palestinian archaeologist Fadel al-Otol keeps tabs on the destruction in real time.

When he has electricity and internet access, photos pour into a WhatsApp group he set up with 40 young peers he mobilized to watch over the territory's vast array of ancient sites and monuments.

As a teenager in the 1990s, Otol was hired by European archaeological missions before studying in Switzerland and at the Louvre Museum in Paris.

"All the archaeological remains in the north have been hit," he told Agence France-Presse (AFP) by phone from Gaza.

Napoleon's HQ flattened

"Blakhiya (the ancient Greek city of Anthedon) was directly bombed. There's a huge hole," said Otol.

He said part of the site, near a Hamas barracks where "we hadn't started excavating," was hit.

The 13th-century Al-Basha palace in Gaza City's old town "has been completely destroyed. There was bombing and (then) it was bulldozed.

"It held hundreds of ancient objects and magnificent sarcophagi," Otol added as he shared recent photos of the ruins.

Napoleon is said to have based himself in the ochre stone edifice at the disastrous end of his Egyptian campaign in 1799.

The room where the French emperor supposedly slept was full of Byzantine artifacts.

"Our best finds were displayed in the Basha," Jean-Baptiste Humbert of the French Biblical and Archaeological School in Jerusalem (EBAF) told AFP.

But we know little of their fate, he said. "Did someone remove the objects before blowing the building up?"

Nerves were frayed even further when the director of the Israel Antiquities Authority, Eli Escusido, posted a video on Instagram of Israeli soldiers surrounded by vases and ancient pottery in the EBAF warehouse in Gaza City.

Much of what has been unearthed in digs in Gaza was stored either at the Al-Basha museum or the warehouse.

This combination of pictures shows Gaza City's Omari Mosque on Jan. 5, 2024, the oldest mosque in Gaza, damaged in Israeli bombardment and a file picture of a Palestinian man reading the Quran in the courtyard of the same mosque on the first day of the Muslim holy month of Ramadan on March 23, 2023. (AFP Photo)

Palestinians quickly accused the army of pillaging. But EBAF archaeologist Rene Elter said he has seen no evidence of "state looting."

"My colleagues were able to return to the site. The soldiers opened boxes. We don't know if they took anything," he told AFP.

However, he added: "Every day when Fadel (al-Otol) calls me, I'm afraid he'll tell me that one of our colleagues has died or that such and such a site has been destroyed."

Archaeology is a highly political issue in Israel and the Palestinian territories, with discoveries often used to justify the claims of the two warring peoples.

While Israel has an army of archaeologists who have unearthed an impressive number of ancient treasures, Gaza remains relatively untouched by the trowel despite a rich past stretching back thousands of years.

Ancient crossroads

Gaza has been the only sheltered natural harbor between the Sinai and Lebanon and for centuries as a crossroads of civilizations.

A pivot point between Africa and Asia and a hub of the incense trade, it was coveted by the Egyptians, Persians, Greeks, Romans and Ottomans.

A key figure in excavating this glorious past over the last few decades has been Jawdat Khoudary, a Gazan construction magnate and collector.

Gaza, with its "seafront real estate," had a property boom in the 1990s after the Oslo Peace Accords and the creation of the Palestinian Authority.

When building workers dug up the soil, they came across many ancient objects. Khoudary amassed a treasure trove of artifacts that he opened up to foreign archaeologists.

Marc-Andre Haldimann, then curator of the MAH, Geneva's art and history museum, couldn't believe his eyes when he was invited to tour Khoudary's mansion garden in 2004.

"We found ourselves in front of 4,000 objects, including an avenue of Byzantine columns," he told AFP.

Palestinian President Mahmud Abbas views antique bottles during his visit to the exhibition "Gaza, at the crossroad of civilizations" at the Art and History Museum in Geneva, Switzerland, April 26, 2007. (AFP Photo)

Quickly, an idea took shape to organize a major exhibition to highlight Gaza's past at the MAH and then to build a museum in the territory itself so that the Palestinians could take ownership of their own heritage.

At the end of 2006, around 260 objects from the Khoudary collection left Gaza for Geneva, with some later going on to be part of another hit show at the Institut du Monde Arabe (IMA) in Paris.

But geopolitics changed along the way. In June 2007, Hamas drove the Palestinian Authority from Gaza. And Israel imposed its blockade.

As a result, the Gazan artifacts could no longer return home and remained stuck in Geneva while the archaeological museum project fizzled out.

But Khoudary did not give up hope. He built a museum-hotel called Al-Mathaf, an Arabic museum, on the Mediterranean coast north of Gaza City.

'Anything but a black hole'

"Al-Mathaf remained under Israeli control for months," Khoudary, who fled Gaza for Egypt, told AFP. "As soon as they left, I asked some people to go there to see what state the place was in. I was shocked. Several items were missing and the hall had been set on fire.

His mansion was also destroyed during fierce fighting in the Sheikh Radwan neighborhood of Gaza City.

"The Israelis flattened the garden with bulldozers ... I don't know whether objects were buried (by the bulldozers) or whether the marble columns were broken or looted. I can't find words," he added.

The Israeli military did not comment on specific sites. It accused Hamas of systematically using civilian structures like cultural heritage sites, government buildings, schools, shelters and hospitals for military purposes.

While part of Khoudary's collection has been lost, the treasures held in Switzerland remain intact, saved by the blockade and the red tape that delayed their return.

Beatrice Blandin, the MAH museum's current curator, said, "There were 106 crates ready to go" for years.

This combination of pictures shows a file picture of the 17th century Qasr al-Basha in Gaza City where Napoleon Bonaparte slept for several nights during his campaign in Egypt and Palestine and what currently remains of the site after Israeli bombardment. (AFP Photo)

Safely far from the war raging in Gaza, "the objects are in good condition," she added. "We restored some of the bronze pieces that were slightly corroded and repacked everything.

"We just had to be sure that the convoy would not be blocked," she told AFP. "We were waiting for that green light."

But with any return impossible at the moment, Blandin said, "Discussions are underway" for a new Gaza exhibition in Switzerland.

Khoudary is excited by the idea.

"The most important collection of objects on the history of Gaza is in Geneva. If there is a new show, it will allow the whole world to learn about our history," he told AFP from Cairo.

"It's an irony of history," said Haldimann, who is trying to get his friend Fadel al-Otol safely out of Gaza.

"A new Gaza exhibition would show once again that Gaza ... is anything but a black hole."