Pera Palace Hotel: Immersing in realm of bygone era
Room 101, where Mustafa Kemal Atatürk stayed at the Pera Palace Hotel, Istanbul, Türkiye, Feb. 28, 2023. (Photo by Buse Keskin)


Just consider a hotel that transparently carries all the traces of history as a living museum with evident cracks on the walls after an assassination attempt – witnessing the story of an heir who suddenly becomes a king in one night while staying in one of its rooms after his father dies.

Urban legends, history, politics, arts and culture: Istanbul’s Pera Palace Hotel is not an ordinary place of accommodation but a real time machine taking visitors to a bygone era as one walks through the ornate lobby, with its high ceilings, sparkling chandeliers and plush furnishings.

The hotel’s general manager, Murat Eti, opened the doors of this iconic hotel to Daily Sabah, offering details about how the building has stood the test of time, protecting its rich historical and cultural texture in the middle of the hustle and bustle of Istanbul.

How it all started
The domes of Pera Palace Hotel, Istanbul, Türkiye, Feb. 28, 2023. (Photo by Buse Keskin)

The legacy of Pera Palace Hotel is closely tied to the history of Istanbul and the Ottoman Empire. The hotel was built in 1892 by the Franco-Turkish architect Alexander Vallaury to accommodate the increasing number of passengers traveling on the Orient Express. This luxury train connected Istanbul to Paris.

According to Murat Eti, the city lacked luxurious accommodations for travelers in search of luxury and elegance in the city. The hotel was built to accommodate such regale guests.

He also elaborated that when they delved into the Ottoman archives, it showed three sergeants decided to build this hotel in the Tepebaşı district. The location offers a great view of the Golden Horn, the historical peninsula and the Bosporus.

Throughout its history, the Pera Palace Hotel has witnessed many historic events, such as the rise and fall of the Ottoman Empire, the end of World War I and the birth of the Turkish republic. It has also inspired many writers and artists, such as Agatha Christie, who wrote part of her famous novel "Murder on the Orient Express" while staying at the hotel.

The Pera Palace Hotel quickly became a symbol of luxury and sophistication, attracting the most distinguished guests worldwide, including writers, artists, politicians and celebrities. The hotel was known for its impeccable service, exquisite cuisine and opulent interiors that reflected the cosmopolitan character of Istanbul.

It is also the first location to provide hot water and electricity after the period’s opulent palaces. Eti also explained that the hotel’s vault was brought from Paris, along with some of the European furniture in all its splendor. For all of these reasons, there was no equivalent in the city to Pera Palace.

Pera culture

Besides being a neighborhood in Istanbul, Pera is an area of rich history and has been a center for arts, culture and entertainment since the 19th century. In addition, the site was once home to Istanbul’s European community, and as a result, it has a distinct cultural blend of European and Ottoman influences.

The antique house phone on the wall of Pera Palace Hotel, Istanbul, Türkiye, Feb. 28, 2023. (Photo by Buse Keskin)

The heart of art and commerce beat there, and it was a critical point that witnessed the ups and downs of history.

As part of this unique and authentic culture, the Pera Palace Hotel was and still is one of the most iconic buildings in the neighborhood. The hotel quickly became a symbol of luxury and sophistication, attracting the most distinguished guests worldwide, including famous authors Ernest Hemingway and Agatha Christie and Swedish American actress Greta Garbo.

It is undoubtedly also an architectural gem that reflects the cosmopolitan character of Istanbul. Its elegant interior design blends Ottoman, art nouveau and art deco styles, creating a unique and extravagant atmosphere.

Today, the Pera Palace Hotel is a historic landmark and a cultural center that continues attracting visitors worldwide, celebrating the rich cultural heritage of Istanbul and the Pera neighborhood.

Famous guests

Having become one of Istanbul’s icons, the Pera Palace was chosen by many renowned artists, politicians and officials.

The 130-year-old hotel hosted many renowned people like American horror director Alfred Hitchcock, Queen Elizabeth, Agatha Christie, Greta Garbo, actress Zsa Zsa Gabor, Iranian Shah Reza Pehlevi and many others.

Other notable names stayed at the hotel, including late Presidents Ismet Inonu and Celal Bayar, Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph, President of Yugoslavia Josip Broz Tito, Gen. Franz von Papen, French actress Sarah Bernhardt, French novelist Pierre Loti, the late U.S. first lady Jacqueline Kennedy, British dancer Ninette de Valois, Dutch exotic dancer and convicted spy Mata Hari, Greek composer Mikis Theodorakis and Britain's King Edward.

Pera Palace holds a remarkable place in history, bearing witness to crucial moments in the lives of its ordinary and famous guests.

While King Edward was hosted in Istanbul by the republic's founder, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, in October 1936 and was staying in the suite there, he received the news that his father had passed away, and as a result, he ascended to the throne.

Cemal Granda recounts this visit in his book "Memoirs of Atatürk’s Servant" and describes how the king "showed a particular interest in Madame Wallis Simpson while appearing extremely considerate."

The interior of the Alfred Hitchcock room, Pera Palace Hotel, Istanbul, Türkiye, Feb. 28, 2023. (Photo by Burcu Başaran)

Granda says that Atatürk whispered to those around him, "I see that the king has a weakness for Madame. I fear he will lose his throne because of this woman."

King Edward indeed abdicated his throne to marry Simpson, which garnered a significant public reaction because she was already married when they first met.

Ernest Hemingway was also a hotel resident after World War I when he was a reporter. Hemingway was one of the regulars of the hotel’s bar. Hemingway used to type his reports while standing in the corner of the bar.

Among the Pera Palace Hotel’s prominent guests was detective novelist Agatha Christie, a frequent visitor from 1926-1932. Her favored room, 411, is now the "Agatha Christie Room."

It is also rumored that she wrote her famous novel, "The Murder on the Orient Express," while staying at the Pera Palace Hotel. Additionally, her 11-day disappearance is believed to be linked to her stay at the hotel.

After the author’s death, the famous psychic Tamara Rand claimed that details about the period when Christie disappeared were hidden in her room at the hotel. A key was found in the author’s room, as described by the psychic, which was supposed to unlock the secret of her lost 11 days. However, the mystery remains unsolved due to a dispute between the hotel management and Warner Bros., who wanted to reveal the secret.

Also, the hotel has taken place in many literary works such as Graham Greene’s "Travels With My Aunt" and Hemingway’s short story "The Snows of Kilimanjaro," published in Esquire magazine in 1936.

Pera Palace, a hotel rich in history, has also attracted many modern distinguished guests, including Irish actor Liam Neeson, French film director Luc Besson, and American stars John Malkovich, Bo Dereck and Ben Affleck, all fascinated by its magic and splendor.

Special rooms

Its rooms are adorned with memories of famous guests, so the hotel has become a "museum hotel."

Now closed for accommodation and serving as a museum displaying many personal effects used by the leader, Room 101 was where Atatürk made many of his important decisions during the War of Independence. We will be delving further into Atatürk’s room in the following part.

Apart from Room 101, other unique rooms are available for accommodation at the hotel. Presidential Suites, which are among the most charming rooms of the hotel and are full of history, are named after the King of England, Edward VIII, and Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph.

Senior Suites of Pera Palace, rooms 201 and 301, continue to cherish the legacy of İsmet İnönü and Celal Bayar, the second and third presidents of Türkiye, respectively.

American film director and producer Hitchcock, "The Master of Suspense," was also a frequent guest of the Pera Palace Hotel when he visited Istanbul. The suite named after him provides spacious areas featuring neo-classical art, books, decorations, a king-size bed, a lounge and a marble bathroom with a bathtub or shower. The Alfred Hitchcock Suite has a neo-classical design style blended with art-nouveau ambiance and decoration.

The antique elevator in Pera Palace Hotel, Istanbul, Türkiye, Feb. 28, 2023. (Photo by Buse Keskin)

Suites named after Pierre Loti, the French writer known for his love for Istanbul, overlook the city’s attractions and the Pierre Loti Hill, which bears his name.

The Ernest Hemingway Suite, full of historical furniture, carries the name of the late American prolific novelist and journalist, who stayed at the hotel while working as a correspondent for the Toronto Daily Star newspaper.

The hotel also has a room named after Mata Hari, one of history’s most well-known female spies who stayed there in the city. The suite is decorated with photographs of the famous spy and overlooks Istanbul’s unique Golden Horn view.

As we mentioned, Pera Palace also has a room named in honor of Christie, which is beloved by the late writer’s fans. Detective novel buffs are sure to appreciate the room full of items used by Christie herself while her pictures are also on display.

Jacqueline Onassis Kennedy, one of the former first ladies of the U.S., is also among the famous people that have stayed at Pera Palace Hotel. Room 612, named after her, is located on the top floor of the Pera Palace Hotel. In the room, which has a large, comfortable and spacious living area, there are replicas of the glasses and hats that the first lady used back in the day.

At Pera Palace, there is also the Greta Garbo Corner Rooms, named after the world-famous Swedish actress who came to Istanbul to shoot a movie in 1924. The "Queen of Ice" stayed at Pera Palace Hotel for 50 days, and now several rooms named after her are available for accommodation.

Pera Palace has many other suites and rooms available for accommodation, albeit not all carry names of famous people, but it is sure to have witnessed history as it happened.

101: Atatürk’s room

Pera Palace Hotel’s history is enriched by the presence of a historical figure who has added immense spiritual value to it: Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

During the War of Independence, the hotel stopped hosting balls and entertainment and became a politically important place where commanders of the Occupation Forces stayed and formed their war strategies. Atatürk wisely chose to remain in the same place as these commanders, with whom he was previously in the Dardanelles during the Gallipoli Wars. Even though he wasn’t a high-level state commander, he covered all expenses out of his pocket. He made plans with his comrades until he moved to his house in Şişli.

In 1981, the 100th anniversary of Atatürk’s birth, the hotel turned room 101 into a museum that can be visited every day between 10 a.m.-11 a.m. and 3 p.m.-4 p.m.

Undoubtedly, the most striking items in the room, which exhibits Atatürk’s personal belongings, books, medals, newspapers and magazines from the period, are the two prayer rugs given as a gift by an Indian Maharaja in 1929, nine years before Atatürk’s death. These rugs, which gained attention after Atatürk's death, feature interesting motifs that may hold a secret.

The rug’s embroidery features an elegant design with meticulous silk stitching, the most striking feature being a watch motif. The hour hand points to nine and the minute hand to seven, carefully woven by hand. The carpet is adorned with elephant motifs, which, according to Indian mythology, represent mourning. The birds in the upper left and right corners of the clock are also depicted with their wings closed, symbolizing the restriction of freedom. In addition to the above motifs, a dominant chrysanthemum embroidery is found throughout the carpet. The chrysanthemum flower is associated with mystical concepts and is generally associated with sadness, often used in funeral ceremonies. In many cultures, it is known as the flower of death, and uniquely, it blooms suddenly in November. The upper part of the carpet contains most of its decorations, including a candlestick symbol. Ten candlestick motifs are embroidered just below the clockwork towards the middle of the rug. As the number of candlesticks is associated with the chrysanthemum symbol, they may represent the date of Nov. 10.

Whether it was a prophecy or a mere coincidence, the rugs depicted the exact date of Atatürk’s death.

From left to right, Pera Hotel General Manager Murat Eti, Buse Keskin and Burcu Başaran.

Eerie paintings

The hotel features several impressive paintings throughout its interior, many historically and culturally significant.

One of the most famous paintings at the Pera Palace Hotel is a portrait of Atatürk. The picture, painted by İbrahim Çallı, hangs in the hotel’s grand staircase and is a popular photo spot for visitors. Another notable painting at the hotel is a large mural by the Italian artist Fausto Zonaro, located in the Kubbeli Saloon. The mural depicts the Ottoman Empire’s victory over the Byzantine Empire in the Battle of Gallipoli in 1915. Other paintings at the Pera Palace Hotel include works by Turkish artists such as Osman Hamdi Bey and Hoca Ali Riza and European artists like Gustave Dore and Jean-Baptiste-Camille Corot.

Yet there are a few paintings that caught our attention throughout our visit. One is the portrait of Greek merchant Bodossakis Athanassiades who arrived at the Pera Palace looking shabby and requested a room to stay in but was subjected to ill-treatment by the officials and eventually removed from the hotel. The following day, the same person reappeared in the lobby, stating he wanted to purchase the hotel. The managers, wanting to get rid of this unusual man, offered a high price, which he accepted, and he proceeded to buy the hotel.

The other one is thought to be painted by Peter Paul Rubens that depicts a court scene where three different women claim the possession of a baby, each asserting being the birth mother of the child. Yet the judge employs some unusual methods to understand who is the real mother.

Mysteries

It is accurate that intriguing stories surround Pera Palace. The man in the velvet jacket who has been operating the elevator at the palace for years, the coy elevator that works whenever it wants, known as the "Old Lady," and Room 309 from the Pierre Loti suites with the unreliable electrical system are some of these stories.

However, the hotel’s mysteries and excitement are not limited to the old tales in dusty history books. As the hotel’s manager, Eti, said, "the excitement continues," with thrilling stories and mysteries about this scarred yet beautiful hotel, which was once a sanctuary for spies and assassinations and even those who survived assassination attempts.

"A place where you can always find something, even when no one is around, and never get bored," he said.

The painting by Peter Paul Rubens at the Pera Palace Hotel, Istanbul, Türkiye, Feb. 28, 2023. (Photo by Buse Keskin)

New mysteries and baffling stories about the hotel continue to surface, with many remaining unclarified. During the hotel’s extensive two-and-a-half-year restoration, many once-hidden materials were discovered that had been completely forgotten. The most intriguing among them was a locked "treasure room" that had been overlooked for 28 years.

The discovery of a long-closed room in the basement’s kitchen section was incredible, as it had remained hidden behind a wooden cabinet for years. Inside the room are silver bread racks, crystal goblets and decanters, and a 5,000-piece Christofle silver cutlery set that any collector would covet.

Interestingly, the foundation’s inventory did not list the 120-year-old service kits, which bore the names of the Pera Palace and the Orient Express company Vagon Lee. It is rumored that Hasan Süzer, who ran the hotel in the '80s, knew about the room but never told anyone else.

Events

Pera Palace, a grand and iconic hotel that has maintained much of its splendor over the years, hosts various exciting events and programs catering to art enthusiasts. With a history of over 120 years, the hotel serves as a hub for the arts and culture scene in Istanbul, attracting both locals and visitors alike.

One of the hotel’s most notable events is "Opera at Pera Palace," which showcases prominent opera artists and mesmerizing performances. The series’ first concert will feature Tülay Uyar Hatip, Onur Turan and Batuğhan Uzgören performing "Vienna Classics." Other exciting programs include "Love at Pera Palace," "Farinelli and Senesino Aries," "Women of the World" and the "Turkish Composers Concert," featuring renowned artists such as Gülfem Kıstır, Ozan Kutlar, Esen Demirci, Kaan Buldular, Paola Villa, Otilia İpek, Evren Ekşi, Aylin Ateş, Nurser Ugan, Nejat Işık Belen, Kevork Tavityan and Evren Büyükburç Erol.

The hotel also hosts "The Saturday Morning Concerts" in the Grand Pera Ballroom, known for its natural acoustics and grandeur, which hosts many firsts in Istanbul. This series offers classical music lovers the chance to experience inspiring performances from talented artists throughout the season.

Featured performers include Özgecan Günöz and Özgür Ünaldı, Serhan Bali, Eylül Elif Arslan, Dilbağ Tokay, Emine Serdaroğlu, TangoNEVA and Ali Pınar, Duo Ensari Schuch – Gülru Ensari, Herbert Schuch, Can Çakmur, Şirin Pancaroğlu, Elif Yurdakul Baykurt, Semplice Quartet and Golden Horn Brass.

In addition to its cultural offerings, Pera Palace is also known for its traditional Afternoon Tea held in the Kubbeli Lounge. This Michelin-recommended restaurant provides guests with a delightful selection of delicacies, accompanied by piano melodies in a stunning setting, flooded with natural daylight from its dome. Visitors can enjoy this experience daily between 3 p.m. and 6 p.m.

With its rich history, stunning architecture and vibrant cultural scene, Pera Palace Hotel offers an unforgettable experience for art lovers and visitors seeking a taste of Istanbul’s grandeur.