Patience, mercy and tolerance: An expat guide to Ramadan
Teravih, the special Ramadan prayer that takes place a few hours following an iftar, being conducted in Istanbul.

Wednesday at dawn marks the start of Ramadan, a month-long daylight fast practiced by Muslims in what is the biggest communal form of worship in the world. This is a special time in which millions hone in on spiritual reflection, self-improvement and increased devotion



With the energy devoted to the three pillars of patience, mercy and tolerance, Ramadan is a fortunate time to be in Turkey. I have had the fortunate opportunity to be here during this holy month over a dozen times and therefore hope to give a glimpse of what I have learned as a guide from a seasoned expat in Turkey to other fellow foreigners. I am in no way an expert, but what I have been told time and time again by fellow Turkish friends is that Ramadan, the month of daylight fasting in which no liquids or foods are consumed, is the holiest of times in Turkey. This is also the month marked in the Islamic calendar in which the Quran was first revealed to the Prophet Muhammad. This trying fast is then celebrated with Eid al-Fitr, or "Şeker Bayramı" in Turkish, which this year falls on July 17. In other words, as of tomorrow, June 18, our fellow Turks and many Muslims worldwide, will be embarking on a trying but very sacred time of self-reflection, improvement and worship.The common thread of what I have been told over the years here in Turkey, 30 to be exact, is derived from the words "merhamet" (compassion) "sabır" (patience) and "tahammül" (tolerance).When it comes to "merhamet," this holiday is intended to give those a taste of what life is like when in need, and in a sense is dedicated to those less fortunate. Through fasting, participants gain a sense of compassion and perspective into how those without have to at times suffer. "Sabır comes into play as this special fast is also a chance to rid oneself of their excessive worldly desires, an example of which could be smoking. "Tahammül" is also an integral part of this holy ritual as people during this time try to be more understanding of one another and themselves while focusing on self-reflection and what matters. And of course, facing physical difficulties during this holy month is also a test of sorts. Then there is the word "nefs," which is hard to truly translate in English, yet means the self, someone's core essence, as well as desires. This time is the reigning in of the "nefs," and the distancing of any of its excessive or indulgent requests in order to gain patience and strength. All in all, the aim is to be on the path to become that perfect version of oneself in this imperfect world where materialism and worldly desires can easily get the best of us.The "oruç" (fast) is not for everyone, and those who are faint of heart, ill, elderly, young, traveling, pregnant or otherwise unable to embark on this hefty task, are certainly not obliged, but it is always a regular custom to instead assist those who are fasting in any form of service. Being in the summer months again this year, this particular fast will be a difficult one and therefore it is important to understand the significance of this sacred time to gain an understanding of the trying task ahead. Regardless of whether you choose to fast, take this chance to be merciful, compassionate and tolerant of those who are indeed taking this sacred path.This month-long fast is held during the daylight hours with participants breaking the fast at sunset with a feast called "iftar." This feast starts off with a bang, and quite literally so, as cannons are released in cities throughout the country to mark the end of the day's fast. Traditionally, the fast is broken with a date, or if not possible, an olive. According to tradition, the Prophet Muhammad would break his fast with three dates. The iftar meal is usually an impressive spread with a variety of traditional dishes, many of which are solely made during this special time. Soups, meat and vegetable stews as well as refreshing desserts such as "güllaç," a sweet dish made of milk, pomegranate and a special wafer-thin pastry, are regular staples. "Ramazan pidesi," is a special type of round flat bread that is especially baked at this time of year with lines spilling onto the streets in the hour or so before iftar as the loaves are taken out piping hot straight from the oven.Families aim to break the fast together and pull out all of the stops to put out a big spread to accommodate everyone. No one is left hungry during this time as municipalities throughout the country hold public iftar dinners to ensure everyone is fed. Special combination boxes are sold in shops that contain fixings for an iftar feast and are a wonderful option as a kind gift for anyone enduring this trying month of worship.Approximately two hours following iftar comes the Terawih prayer, a special ceremony including 20 repetitions of rakaat. This is not only a very special prayer ceremony for Muslims, but also wonderfully works into the ritual of healthy cleansing with sacred movement in the early hours. Then, a few hours later, comes the drummers, or "davulcular" in Turkish. If you happen to be startled by the sudden pounding of drums in the night, do not fret, it is just the calling to arise to Sahur, the pre-dawn meal of the day before the sun rises and the trying fast resumes. Sahur tends to be a breakfast-style spread with lots of liquids and healthy items to give the person fasting a running start.Although this is actually a time of healthy rituals and cleansing, it can understandably be trying for those fasting, especially in the summer months. The word Ramadan comes from an Arabic root, which refers to scorching heat or dryness and if the weather conditions over the past few days are any indication, then keep in mind, this particular Ramadan may be a tough one. So, as an expat, what we can do is be patient, compassionate and tolerant to the slowing of time and energy during this month. While those fasting are putting themselves in the shoes of others, the less fortunate to be exact, I would advise those who are not fasting to keep in mind the difficult task at hand by those who are taking on this special form of worship this month. By fasting, people are aiming to become their perfect selves during this time and if those who are not taking part can do anything to contribute to this special month, they should aspire for the same and make patience, compassion and tolerance their motto, as life tends to be slower. But just know that with this much intensity paid to self-reflection for the betterment, this is a very special time to be breathing the air in Turkey.