From France to the world: Michelin Guide’s evolving culinary impact
A Michelin Guide star sign for restaurant excellence hanging on brick wall, Vilnius, Lithuania, Jan. 30, 2025. (Shutterstock Photo)


Founded at the start of the 20th century by French tire-makers, the Michelin Guide has evolved from being a practical handbook for motorists to the world’s star-studded reference in gastronomy and hospitality.

Yet despite its global reach, there are still places beyond the Michelin Guide’s reach — something that its international director Gwendal Poullennec is seeking to change. In an ​exclusive interview with Reuters, Poullennec discussed the history and influence of the Michelin Guide on global gastronomy, its role in exporting the French "art de vivre” and where its focus may expand to next.

Poullennec described joining the Michelin Guide as "a dream job,” driven by a desire to explore global food cultures. He said he has traveled to more than 70 countries to discover cuisines and meet the people shaping the industry, noting that "new culinary scenes are emerging almost everywhere” as global food culture continues to evolve.

The Michelin Guide was created in 1900 as a practical tool for early motorists. Originally a marketing product for Michelin tires, it helped drivers navigate roads, maintain their vehicles and find places to rest and eat. Over time, it shifted from a travel aid into a broader lifestyle reference.

The introduction of Michelin stars in the late 1920s marked a major turning point, transforming it into a global authority in fine dining. Today, Poullennec said, it has become a media platform influencing tourism trends, culinary reputations and the global food map.

He said the guide’s arrival in a new destination can be "a life changer for chefs” and a broader "game changer” for regions. Because food strongly influences travel, he said, Michelin recognition can act as a catalyst for economic development. He pointed to Thailand, where the guide’s first selection in Bangkok about a decade ago included street food stalls, recognizing local food culture on a global stage and helping elevate the country’s broader culinary scene.

Poullennec addressed the guide’s portrayal in popular culture, including shows such as "Emily in Paris.” He said there are "a lot of myths” about Michelin inspectors, who work anonymously to ensure unbiased evaluations. He described the system as structured to "make sure that you left no stone unturned,” ensuring consistent standards. He added that film and television portrayals of the industry help highlight culinary talent and bring visibility to restaurant work.

On France’s influence, Poullennec said the Michelin Guide is "one of the main soft powers for France internationally.” He noted that France holds more than 600 Michelin stars, about 18% of the global total. French gastronomy, he said, remains deeply rooted in history, ingredients and craftsmanship and continues to shape global cuisine. He estimated that roughly 20% to 25% of starred restaurants reflect French culinary influence, whether through style, techniques, products, or the broader "art de vivre.”

Responding to criticism about applying uniform standards across diverse culinary traditions, Poullennec said the guide has increasingly adapted beyond its French origins. While its foundation helped build expertise in refinement and curation, he said the guide now hires inspectors with deep local knowledge when entering new regions such as Mexico and Oceania. The goal, he said, is to "recognize fairly all the different food styles” while allowing chefs full creative freedom, reflecting what he described as a rapidly growing and increasingly diverse global food scene.

On expansion, Poullennec said the guide focuses on the maturity of a culinary ecosystem before entering a new market. This includes evaluating the number of restaurants, overall quality, creativity and dynamism. He said the guide also needs trained inspectors in place, and that they "do not want to compromise with the value of the ratings,” making expansion a gradual process.

He noted that some countries with major culinary influence are still not covered. The Michelin Guide is not yet present in India, despite the global prominence of Indian cuisine, though Indian chefs are already recognized internationally, including at the three-star level. Poullennec said he expects new destinations, including India and parts of Africa, to eventually join the Michelin Guide map, adding: "Stay tuned.”