Forget the Pentagon, here in Istanbul, global strategy is brewed one strong cup of tea and one backgammon move at a time
In the heart of Istanbul's historic neighborhoods, away from the sleek glass towers of Levent and the diplomatic corridors of Ankara, lies a network of high-stakes intelligence hubs. They do not have satellite dishes on their roofs or encrypted servers in the basement. Instead, they are marked by the rhythmic clicking of backgammon tiles and the persistent steam of tulip-shaped tea glasses.
Welcome to the "Turkish kahvehane," the traditional coffeehouse that serves as the unofficial headquarters for the world's most confident geopolitical analysts.
My dear colleague Amez Ahmed and I arrived without an appointment, but by deploying some tactical journalism skills and a bit of persuasion, we managed to infiltrate their ranks and secure a seat at the inner circle.
Unofficial pentagon
To the untrained eye, the coffeehouse is a place for retirees. In reality, this is far more than a place to escape the house or play Okey, the popular tile-based game. For the "uncles" (translated from the endearing term "dayı" in Turkish), who are the seasoned elders commanding these tables, it is a war room. Here, the complexities of global diplomacy are deconstructed with a level of certainty that would make a CIA director blush.
One regular at a local spot in Kasımpaşa, who asked to remain anonymous while discussing sensitive state matters over a game of backgammon, says that people think the world is run from Washington or Brussels. He believes those guys are just actors. He argues that if you want to know what Trump is actually planning for 2026, you have to look at who is controlling the hazelnut prices, because everything is connected.
In these hazy rooms, the term foreign actors serves as the ultimate protagonist of every story. Whether it is a fluctuation in the lira or a change in the U.S. interest rates, the men of the coffeehouse have already connected the dots.
A system based on tea
The logistics of these intelligence hubs are remarkably efficient. There is no Wi-Fi, yet news travels faster here than on any social media platform. The fuel for this intellectual labor is the tea, which is a dark and potent brew served at a temperature just below boiling.
These men view the global economy not as a series of random market forces, but as a deliberate game of chess played by shadowy figures. To them, the price of a loaf of bread in a local bakery is not just inflation; it is a tactical move by a foreign central bank to test the resolve of the Turkish people. They discuss the Federal Reserve's interest rate hikes with the same intimacy one might use to discuss a neighbor’s noisy dog. To the dayı, the "big picture" is always visible, provided you have enough sugar in your tea to sustain the mental effort required to see it.
The menu is strictly traditional. If you ask for a latte or an oat milk cappuccino, the silence that follows is louder than a diplomatic crisis. In a coffeehouse, identity is simple because you are either a player, a listener or a strategist.
Their duty begins at nine sharp. As the televisions turn on, they start defending the realities presented by their chosen news outlets with unwavering loyalty.
This creates a fascinating linguistic landscape. A dayı might shout at the screen, accusing a foreign correspondent of being a secret agent, only to turn to his friend and explain exactly which foreign actor paid for the correspondent’s tie.
This level of media literacy is unique; it is a blend of extreme skepticism and total belief in the power of propaganda. They believe that nothing is accidental. A sneeze by a politician during a press conference is analyzed for 30 minutes as a potential coded signal to a sleeper cell.
In this high-stakes environment, the "master of the table" is usually the oldest man present. His role is to moderate the debate and ensure that no theory is too wild to be considered. He is the one who interprets the news crawl on the television, translating the formal language of news anchors into the gritty, conspiratorial dialect of the street. If the news reports a diplomatic meeting in Geneva, the master of the table will explain that the real meeting actually happened three days prior in a secret basement in London. His authority is absolute, derived from decades of watching the same news cycles repeat themselves like the seasons.
Future of the intelligence hub
The dayıs look at the younger generation, staring silently into their smartphones, with a sense of profound loss. They believe that true intelligence cannot be found in a Google search, but only in the heated, tea-fueled debates of a smoke-filled room.
It is a place where the grandest designs of global empires are brought down to earth and judged by men who have seen it all before. As long as there is tea to be brewed and a foreign power to be blamed, the underground intelligence hubs of Istanbul will continue to operate, one clacking tile at a time.
Perhaps the greatest secret of all is that the world is not run by those in suits, but by those who have spent the last 40 years sitting on plastic chairs, waiting for the tea man to bring the next round of truth.
Who knows.