In my previous article, I took you to the town of St. Wolfgang in Austria’s Salzkammergut Lake District. The region is a wonderful destination where lakes lie close to one another, connected by scenic roads offering breathtaking views. This makes it easy to travel between them while enjoying some spectacular landscapes along the way. As you drive along the roads winding between the lakes, a new and enchanting view seems to emerge around every bend. After exploring St. Wolfgang, the first stop on our itinerary, we made our way to St. Gilgen, located on the opposite shore of the lake, accompanied by stunning scenery and Mozart’s symphonies playing in the background.

The two towns are about 18 to 20 kilometers (11 to 12 miles) apart, making it a roughly 20-minute drive. You can also catch a ferry from St. Wolfgang to St. Gilgen, but since we had a rental car, we decided to take the scenic route. The drive was a treat in itself, with beautiful views of rolling green hills and blue waters along the way. Once we arrived, we left the car in one of the parking lots at the edge of town and set off to explore on foot.

First impressions

Compared with St. Wolfgang, St. Gilgen struck us as a quieter, more laid-back town, with fewer crowds. One of the first things we noticed was how beautifully maintained everything was. The buildings seemed to have been carefully preserved, and traditional Austrian houses were everywhere, with steep roofs, wooden shutters and windows overflowing with colorful geraniums and hydrangeas.

Wandering through the streets, we also came across small craft workshops. Traditional woodcarving and the making of traditional garments are still part of everyday life here, and you can find locally made pieces in the shops, including some lovely souvenirs to take home. Just as in St. Wolfgang, one of the pleasures of exploring St. Gilgen was simply wandering down its little side streets without worrying about where they might lead. Traffic is restricted in certain parts of town, making it especially pleasant to explore the center and lakeside on foot with our child.

Mozart's legacy

It doesn't take long to notice that Mozart has a special place in St. Gilgen's history. I'd read a little about the connection before our visit, and it turned out to be quite an interesting story. We began our exploration at Mozartplatz, the town's central square.

At its center stands a small statue of Mozart holding a violin. It's a modest monument, rather than the grand statue you might expect. Behind it, however, is an impressive historic building that is hard to miss. This is the Rathaus, or town hall, and its striking facade makes it a popular spot for photographs.

Mozart-themed souvenirs, chocolates and other memorabilia are easy to find around town. There's an interesting twist to this connection, though: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart himself never actually visited St. Gilgen. So why is the town so closely associated with the composer? It all goes back to his family. His mother, Anna Maria Pertl, was born here in 1720, while his older sister Maria Anna, better known as Nannerl, also spent many years in St. Gilgen after getting married. In fact, the house where Mozart's mother was born still stands in the town. Mozart may never have been here, but his family certainly left their mark.

A short walk from the square toward the waterfront brings you to the Mozart-Haus. With its pink facade and geraniums spilling from the windows, this charming house occupies a lovely spot right by the lake. Now a museum, it displays family belongings, historical objects and letters that offer a glimpse into the Mozart family's life and their ties to St. Gilgen. It's well worth a visit if you'd like to learn more about Nannerl and the family's history in the town.

We ended up spending quite a bit of time by the water just across from the house. Our son had a wonderful time splashing around and playing along the shore, while we enjoyed the chance to slow down and take in the peaceful surroundings. If you're in the area, don't miss St. Aegidius Church, either. Just a short distance from the Mozart-Haus, this Baroque church is another local landmark, with an especially elegant interior.

After exploring the square and getting lost in the old streets, we made our way back to the lake. Wolfgangsee's water is so clear that you can easily spot fish swimming beneath the surface. We enjoyed walking along the lakeside promenade and then settling onto a bench to take in the view. Sometimes, simply sitting by the water is the best way to experience a place.

At the pier, we also spotted some charming old-fashioned boats offering lake cruises and connections to St. Wolfgang and Strobl. We didn't get on board, but there are plenty of other ways to enjoy the lake, depending on the season. You might see people kayaking, rowing or swimming in its clear waters. Another lovely way to spend an afternoon is to stop at one of the small lakeside cafes, order a coffee and watch the water stretch out before you.

Zwölferhorn summit

Once you've had your fill of lakeside strolls, there's another experience you shouldn't miss: a trip up Mount Zwölferhorn, which rises just behind St. Gilgen. The Zwölferhorn Seilbahn cable car station is an easy walk from the town center, so getting there couldn't be simpler.

The ride to the summit takes around 15 minutes in modern, newly built cable cars, carrying you up to an altitude of 1,522 meters (4,993 feet). As the cabin climbs higher, St. Gilgen becomes smaller and smaller below, while Wolfgangsee gradually opens up beneath you. The views along the way are spectacular, but the panorama at the top is something else entirely.

From the summit, Wolfgangsee is just one part of the picture. You can also see other lakes in the Salzkammergut region, including Mondsee and Fuschlsee, as well as the surrounding Alps. Seeing them all from above gives you a much better sense of just how close these lakes are to one another and how the region's landscape fits together.

If you feel like spending more time in the mountains, there are hiking trails to suit different fitness levels. You can enjoy the crisp mountain air, take in the scenery and watch paragliders launch themselves from the summit. There are also wooden benches at the viewing platforms where you can sit back, relax and soak up the views. When you're ready, simply hop back on the cable car for the ride down to town.

Local flavors

After a day spent walking, exploring and taking in the scenery, you'll probably be ready for a good meal. We'd recommend trying one of the local restaurants. The Salzkammergut region is particularly known for its freshwater fish, so keep an eye out for Saibling, a local Alpine char. Usually grilled with fresh herbs and butter and served with boiled potatoes, it's a great way to sample the region's local flavors.

If fish isn't your thing, there are other traditional Austrian dishes worth trying. Kasnocken, small dumplings generously coated in cheese and topped with caramelized onions, are a comforting local favorite. You can also go for Wiener Schnitzel, one of Austria's best-known classics.

And don't leave town without making time for something sweet. The historic pastry shops in the center are a great place to experience Austria's much-loved coffeehouse culture. A warm Apfelstrudel (apple strudel) served with vanilla sauce, paired with a Wiener Melange, a traditional Austrian coffee topped with milk foam, makes for a perfect afternoon treat.

Not much of a pastry person? Head to one of the ice cream shops in the town center and try the salted caramel ice cream instead.

Practical tips

St. Gilgen is about 30 kilometers from Salzburg city center, making it an easy getaway if you're flying into the city. You can comfortably fit visits to both St. Gilgen and St. Wolfgang into a weekend, and direct buses from Salzburg make the town accessible even without a rental car.

Allow around four to five hours to see the main sights, visit the Mozart-Haus and take the cable car up Zwölferhorn. If you'd rather take your time, you can easily make a full day of it or combine St. Gilgen with St. Wolfgang and other nearby lakes for a longer getaway.

Late spring and early fall are particularly good times to visit, with pleasant temperatures for walking and fewer tourists around. That said, St. Gilgen under a blanket of snow in winter must be quite a sight, too.