Rome of Balkans: Skopje, home of Alexander the Great, Mother Teresa
The Archaeology Museum and the Art Bridge, Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

Have you ever asked yourself whether you like the night or the day more in the cities you travel to? I always ask myself after every trip, because every city sings a different song to me night and day. Skopje is one of those cities, that when it gets dark, it seems to be singing romantic songs in Parisian style



While Skopje, the capital of North Macedonia, sparkles with a Parisian romance at night and fascinates you, it turns into Rome with its sculptures and structures resembling an open-air museum during the day. Of course, these sculptures and structures are not from as deep-rooted a history as Rome. However, Skopje wants to leave a deep-rooted history, a city with the taste of an open-air museum, and a legacy to the future, especially with the statues and gigantic structures erected in the city square, around the Stone Bridge and in many different places. Skopje, which is trying to take root in these lands, is a place where you can spend a lot of time, day and night, even though it may seem small.

Skopje took the title of the capital of the Republic of Macedonia, which declared its independence in 1991 after spending centuries under the rule of the Roman, Byzantine, Serbian, Ottoman Empires and Yugoslavia.

The city is the capital of the country, which was renamed "North Macedonia" on June 12, 2018, as well as its largest and most developed city.

Skopje, which makes me feel at home and at peace every time I come here, has a different spirit of its own. It is neither exactly a European nor exactly an Ottoman city. While following the traces of the Ottomans on one bank of the Vardar River, when you cross the Stone Bridge to the opposite side of the water, a bright modern city welcomes you.

Skopje during the night. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

Stone Bridge

The Stone Bridge, which connects the two sides of the Vardar River, is also known as the Ottoman Sultan Mehmed II Bridge – as it was built under his patronage – and the Vardar Bridge. This bridge from the Ottoman period actually divides the city into new and old. The bridge leading to the Old Bazaar on one end and Macedonia Square at the other end is one of the symbolic structures of Skopje.

It is quite enjoyable to watch the city over this symbolic structure. I spent quite a long time on the bridge. I walked across the bridge, then came to the middle of it and rested my arms on the stone walls of the bridge and watched the Vardar River flow for a long time. I dreamed of the lives lived in this city with a deep-rooted history. While watching the two opposite banks of the Vardar River, I couldn't help wondering whether the Stone Bridge connects or separates these two banks. This bridge, which smells of melancholy, became a place I often visited during my stay in Skopje.

The Stone Bridge, in Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

Old Bazaar

When you leave the eastern end of the Stone Bridge and continue on the road, you reach the Old Bazaar, or the Turkish Bazaar. In this part of the city, which we can call the old city, you can follow the traces of the Ottoman Empire. You can come across inns, baths, mosques and tombs from the Ottoman era on narrow streets with cobblestone pavements. Refounded by the Turks during a later period, the bazaar has been the city's most important trade center since its establishment in the 12th century. After visiting the souvenir shops and historical places in the bazaar, you should definitely visit the covered market set up toward the end of the bazaar. You will definitely find something to take home in the market where local fresh products from the villages of Skopje are sold. I heard that especially on certain dates, very delicious beans come to this market from Tetova, another city in Macedonia. I couldn't come across it when I went, but if you do, definitely get it. In fact, this local bean is served in most restaurants in Skopje. Even if you don't buy it from the market, you should definitely eat beans in a restaurant.

The Old Bazaar in Skopje, North Macedonia, May 8, 2022. (Reuters Photo)

Macedonia Square

When you leave the western end of the Stone Bridge and continue walking, Macedonia Square welcomes you. Unlike the other side of the bridge, you will see a more modern city atmosphere here. The square, which is bright at night, is full of modern buildings and sculptures made after 2010.

The most striking of these statues is the statue of Alexander the Great in the middle of the square. On the other side of the river, there is a statue of King Philip II of Macedonia, Alexander the Great's father. This mutual stance of the two statues is almost like a father and son greeting each other.

Apart from the sculptures, there are places to shop, restaurants to eat and nice cafes to have a drink in the square.

The Archaeology Museum and the Art Bridge in Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

Archeology Museum
The statue of Alexander the Great in Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

Macedonia Archaeological Museum, located in the immediate vicinity of Art Bridge, another bridge in the city, fascinates people with its white marble and sparkling appearance in the evenings. In the museum, where you can see about 6,000 to 7,000 historical artifacts, there are objects from the Ancient, Medieval and Ottoman Periods, archaeological remains, wax sculptures, paintings and old coins. One of the most important works in the museum is the copy of Alexander the Great's sarcophagus. There are statues of important people of the period on both sides of the Art Bridge near the museum.

I think I need to emphasize again, as I have emphasized throughout my article, that Skopje's night is bright. Especially the area where the museum is located and the bridge offer an incredible view at night with lights and sculptures.

Mother Teresa House

Born in Skopje in 1910, Mother Teresa was of Albanian origin and is remembered for her benevolence and helpfulness throughout her life. In the Memorial House of Mother Teresa built in her memory, there are many photographs and belongings about her childhood and life that started in Skopje. The lower floor of the house is a museum, and the upper floor is used as a church.

Mother Teresa House is one of the places you can see on the road when you walk forward from the square.

The Memorial House of Mother Teresa in Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

Old Train Station

A part of the railway station built between 1938 and 1940 in Skopje was destroyed by a great earthquake in 1963. In this earthquake, which caused great destruction in Skopje, the clock on the wall of the train station, which was not destroyed, stopped at 5:17 a.m., the time of the earthquake. Today, the wall and the clock on it are still preserved as the symbol of that day. At the same time, the station currently serves as the Skopje City Museum.

Inns, baths and mosques

The number of inns, baths, mosques and historical buildings bearing the traces of the Ottoman Empire in Skopje is quite high. Among the mosques, the most striking ones are Sultan Murad II Mosque, Yahya Pasha Mosque, Ishak Bey Mosque and Mustafa Pasha Mosque.

You should also see the inns from the Ottoman period. Again, the most known of the inns on the side of the Turkish Bazaar are Kapan Han, Kurşun Han and Sulu Han. Another of the Ottoman artifacts in Skopje is the baths. Double Bath is one of them. The restored Double Bath is now used as a modern art gallery. Apart from these, the New Bath, the Sultan Murad IV Bath, Davutpaşa and the Jewish Baths are some of the baths used today.

The old train station clock that stopped working during an earthquake in 1963, Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

You should definitely see these artifacts that bear the traces of the Ottoman Empire, which you may encounter while visiting the eastern side of the Stone Bridge and the Turkish Bazaar.

Skopje Castle

As in every city, I know a beautiful place where you can watch the sunset in Skopje. Skopje Castle is a place where you can both spend the day with a wonderful view and see the square from a bird's eye view. The castle, which was used during the Ottoman period, is one of the places damaged in the 1963 earthquake. I recommend you to go to Skopje Castle and have a look at the city from here.

Porta Macedonia

If you have seen the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, you will immediately think of that when you see this arch. Located in Pella Square, this memorial arch symbolizing the independence of Macedonia was inaugurated in 2012.

Mount Vodno and Millennium Cross

It is possible to see the huge cross on Vodno Mountain from every point of the city. However, if you want to see it closer, you can take the cable car to this highest point of the city. The giant cross, which was made in the name of the 2,000th year of Christianity, is located exactly 66 meters (217 feet) high. There are cafes and restaurants where the cross is located. If you wish, you can take a short break and have a look at the city from here.

The Matka Canyon, Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)
Skopje Castle, in Skopje, North Macedonia. (Photo by Özge Şengelen)

Matka Canyon

This natural paradise, a half-hour away from Skopje, deserves to be explained in more detail in a separate article. A lush natural wonder, this canyon is a must-visit place for those who go to Skopje. In this canyon, which is spread over a very large area, there is also the Vrelo Cave, one of the deepest underground water caves in the world. Matka Canyon, the meeting point of the Vardar and Tresla rivers, is definitely worth seeing with its completely different atmosphere.

I don't know what kind of place you think of when Skopje is mentioned, but I think you may have added it to your list of places to go after this article. Skopje, which is perhaps one of the most worth seeing of the Balkan cities, will give you a completely different travel experience with its night, day, nature and history. You will witness different cultures with Albanians and Turks living on one side of the river and Macedonians living on the other. Of course, as I mentioned at the beginning of my article, I think you will fall in love with the night of this city.

Every time I come to this city that makes me feel at home, I have stayed in a ship hotel on the Vardar River. The sounds of the rushing waters of the Vardar River at night accompanied my sleep in Skopje.

The glass of brewed tea I drank with a side of pastry during the mornings at the Turkish Bazaar made me feel back at home, while one of the most famous desserts of Skopje, tres leches, which I had toward noon made it so that one of the parts that remained in my mouth when I came back home was the taste of this trip.

Before leaving Skopje, I sat on the top deck of the ship and watched the fast-flowing Vardar River for a long time. I looked at the Stone Bridge, which is described as the neck of Skopje. I said I'm glad for every beautiful moment that I added to my memories by traveling in the face of people running fast somewhere, the flowing water and time.