On my fourth day in Aksaray, I visited the ancient city of Mokissos and spent two great hours solo exploring remote rock-cut structures and the ruins of the enormous Bell Church, located on an isolated hill in the vast central Anatolian plains.

In today’s article, we’ll trek through the ancient mountaintop Byzantine city of Mokissos, often called the "Ephesus of Cappadocia." Afterward, we will get to explore the Bell Church (Çanlı Church) and the mind-blowingly mysterious monastic and residential cave complexes located high up in the hills, in the middle of nowhere. (Click here for Day 1, Day 2 and Day 3.)

Ancient city of Mokissos

The ancient city of Mokissos is located in Aksaray’s suburban town of Helvadere, which stands right at the northern foothill of the dormant volcano, Mount Hasan.

Mokissos left me awestruck. On my way to this site, as I was driving along the narrow roads that offered ineffable scenes of Mount Hasan, I had the expectation of visiting a small-sized settlement. To my surprise, Mokissos was vast. There are around 1,000 dwellings in the city. In addition to these dwellings, there are numerous other structures that once served as churches, state buildings, wells and more.

Since I was on a tight schedule, I told myself, "I will spend no more than 45 minutes here," but it still took me two hours to complete my visit. There is a lot to see in this ancient site, so make sure you plan your day in advance to allow yourself the time you need.

Even though Mokissos is not that popular of a tourist spot, I was impressed by the organization of the site. The tourist information boards about the ruins were very informative and elaborate. Also, the path circling the area was made using the stones recovered from the ruins, which certainly contributes to the authentic atmosphere of Mokissos. It made me feel as if I were walking around the city prior to its discovery.

A brief history of Mokissos

Mokissos was the capital city of the Byzantine state Cappadocia III and a very important religious and political center during the era of Byzantine Emperor Justinian I. Moreover, this ancient city was the archiepiscopate of the vast region covering the south of Kızılırmak River (Halys in Ancient Greek).

The ancient city of Mokissos was first mentioned in history by Byzantine historian Procopius in the 550s. The way this prominent scholar talked about this city helps us envision the past:

"There was a very dilapidated castle on a plain in Cappadocia named Mokissos. The emperor Justinian I had it demolished completely and built strong fortifications on the steep lands that are to the west of the castle. He also built many churches, bathhouses and other structures to reflect the opulence of the city. Subsequently, Mokissos became a metropolis and the Romans started calling it the most important city of this large area."

Mokissos’s prosperity and fame did not last long, however. This short-lived ancient city was deserted in the eighth century, just two centuries after its foundation. Mysteriously, the reason behind its abandonment is not known for certain.

What to see in Mokissos?

Here are the five main attractions to see in this ancient settlement: