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Fashion giant H&M to probe violence, sex abuse reports in Asian factories

by

LONDON Jun 05, 2018 - 12:00 am GMT+3
People walk past the windows of an H&M store in Barcelona, Spain, December 30, 2016. (Reuters Photo)
People walk past the windows of an H&M store in Barcelona, Spain, December 30, 2016. (Reuters Photo)
by Jun 05, 2018 12:00 am

Fashion giant H&M said on Tuesday it would investigate reports that Asian garment workers making clothes for its high-street stores routinely face sex abuse, harassment and violence.

Based on interviews with some 330 workers in 32 H&M supplier factories in Bangladesh, Cambodia, India, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka, civil society groups said women were at "daily risk" of violence, and faced retaliation if they reported the attacks.

The coalition has investigated the factories for several years as efforts mount to push Western brands into improving safety along their supply chains and render them slave-free.

Clothes stitched by low-paid Asian workers - part of a complex global supply chain - end up on high-priced Western high streets, with some 4,750 H&M stores operating in 69 countries.

Sweden's H&M, the world's No. 2 clothes group after Zara owner Inditex (ITX.MC), said it would review the findings of the recent report by the rights groups and unions.

"We will go through every section of the report and follow up on (a) factory level with our local teams based in each production country," a company spokesman said in a statement.

"All forms of abuse or harassment are against everything that H&M group stands for."

The charities said they had found widespread sex harassment, verbal and physical abuse - such as slapping - and threats of retaliation when women refused sexual advances from bosses.

Forced labor?

Two separate reports published last month by the rights groups found similar abuse of women at suppliers for U.S.-based Walmart, the world's largest retailer, and apparel retailer Gap.

Walmart said last month that it was reviewing the "concerning" accounts cited in the report.

Gap did not respond to requests for comment.

The Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI), a group of trade unions, firms and charities of which both Gap and H&M are members, said it expected the retailers to work with the suppliers to ensure that women have swift access to remedy.

"These allegations are deeply concerning," said Debbie Coulter of the ETI. "Gender-based violence is unacceptable under any circumstances, and brands need to make sure that women working in their supply chain are protected."

Campaigners told the Thomson Reuters Foundation last month that the level of pressure and harassment faced by the workers in the three separate reports was approaching forced labor.

"Any time you have retaliation against workers, and coercion and control ... you are coming close to the line of forced labor," Jennifer Rosenbaum of Global Labor Justice (GLJ), a network of worker and migrant organizations, said last month.

The reports have been published amid meetings hosted by the United Nations' International Labour Organization (ILO) to work on the first global convention against workplace harassment after the #MeToo campaign thrust the issue into the spotlight.

About the author
Research Associate at Center for Islam and Global Affairs (CIGA) at Istanbul Sabahattin Zaim University
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