Among the numerous showrooms in Nişantaşı, Özgür Masur's showroom stands out. In addition to the magnificent designs reflecting his style, the intense work, archival research and effort behind each collection give this space a unique aura. Özgür Masur greeted me at the showroom door with an energetic smile. The haute couture collection's fashion show was just a few days away, yet he appeared calm, almost serene, as if the show had already concluded.
He began showing me the final photos of the models from his iPad, explaining each detail and embroidery with sparkling eyes and great excitement. We were talking about a grand collection inspired by Anatolia, centered around women, featuring 100 pieces. Slowly, he started sharing the details of this collection, speaking with utmost confidence and tranquility.
"The preparation process for this collection took three years. Every fashion designer, especially our international guests, would ask why there were no motifs or handcrafts related to Anatolia in our designs. They suggested using more motifs and craftsmanship," he said.
"In the Byzantium collection, I had the chance to delve into the Byzantine era, which had been studied superficially by art students in these lands. As I examined Byzantium, and its concepts of people, palace and women, I delved deeper. Exploring Byzantium led me to look at Anatolia and the civilizations that came and went from here with a deeper perspective. I started shaping the story in my mind," he added.
"Also, the 100th anniversary of the Republic of Türkiye provided an opportunity to create a magnificent collection that would be crowned by the 100-year history of the Turkish republic on these lands. Ultimately, we created a collection consisting of 100 models, 100 looks, the result of incredibly detailed work, a collection gifted to the republic," he remarked.
The experienced designer, born in 1979, explained how he managed to overcome the challenge of applying cultural references, often perceived as too folkloric, in his collection: "Let's admit it, when we talk about being inspired by Anatolia, folkloric and heavily processed images come to mind. Starting from these, I worked on creating desirable objects while preserving Özgür Masur's signature style. During the collection's development, I discarded hundreds of sketches that didn't feel right. I wanted to transform them into pieces more reflective of our present and offer references to the future."
"I worked on adding more modernity to each design. In this collection, we have metal wires and needlework. But instead of using them as mere details, I applied these handcrafts on entire fabrics based on my patterns and designs. We trapped our ikat patterns within glass plates. Our tiles were treated similarly. After the earthquake, we shifted much of this handwork to the affected regions, where women created these embroideries by hand. I adapted men's clothing details to women's garments. I embraced and worked on the cultures of Anatolia without considering their religion or ethnicity. You will see a piece from everyone and everything. I used distinctive features from various civilizations, both small and pronounced. I aimed to provide a reference for the future in this way," he said.
As in his previous collections, Masur tells the stories of women and their experiences. There are wedding dresses and bridal veils. In addition, women's suffering is among the themes. You can see a powerful narrative of women among the pieces in the collection.
"Of course, while telling all these stories, I did not abandon my designer identity. After all, I am a fashion designer serving women, not a costume designer. The brand has its own sparkle, and maintaining this sparkle in the collection, making it represent me, was one of my important concerns. Our team pondered deeply on this, and in the end, the collection that emerged also satisfied me from this perspective," Masur emphasized, pointing out some of the concerns he faced while discussing this collection.
As I mentioned, there are references to different historical periods of Anatolia, different states and cultures in the collection. However, when showing the collection pieces that refer to his Black Sea roots, Masur speaks with another pride, another sparkle in his eyes.
"I am from the Black Sea region. We are a family of textile workers. But to be honest, I didn't grow up among women who created things with handcrafts. Yet, I saw the dowries laid out. I must have seen my sister's, my sister-in-law's, or the dowries of family acquaintances, especially when I was a child. The Black Sea region has a slightly more masculine energy as a perception. I included lead weights and pocket watches in women's outfits. You will see that energy of the Black Sea in the collection," he said.
As one of Türkiye's most renowned fashion designers, I then asked how he sees himself and his position as a designer.
"I do have an idea about how I am perceived. I know that a fashion customer who works with me directly, who appreciates me, spends enjoyable moments with me and ultimately has the design she dreams of, doesn't let go of me. I have never done anything just for the sake of doing it. No matter how much time and money I spend, I never create something that doesn't feel right to me. What I try to do is reflect what I want to convey more accurately. Words like 'inspiration struck' are very off-putting to me. I try to approach it more analytically. There is a mathematics to preparing a collection. Fashion has a scientific aspect that draws references from many sciences like sociology and psychology. I try to pursue that," he said.
"I am a person who believes that one cannot do three or four jobs simultaneously and do them properly. With the influence of the education I received, I can draw very well, for example, but I don't make a career out of painting. I am a graduate of fine arts, but I don't become famous for it. This shouldn't happen. I think a person should give their best to a task," he said.
"I am still on my way to being a good fashion designer, and there is much more I can do. I don't believe a fashion designer needs to be famous. Their work should be known, recognized; it shouldn't be a tabloid topic," he added.
Sustainability, hard work and discipline have been the secrets to Masur's success since he first participated in the Galata Fashion Week in 2008. When asked about this, he said: "I prepare ready-to-wear collections twice a year. Collections that are consistent every day, are sold in many different parts of the world. My couture collections are made every few years, they feed me and my brand, but of course, what sustains Özgür Masur are these ready-to-wear collections consisting of 35-40 pieces. I want my ready-to-wear collection to walk hand in hand with an investor and reach a completely different place in the world. I am a brand that is only 6 years old. I have been in this industry for almost 20 years. Now I want my ready-to-wear collection to become a brand that is sold all over the world. I want to achieve that."
