In Türkiye's northwestern province of Kırklareli, a centuries-old tradition symbolizing sharing continues to thrive during the Islamic month of Muharram.
Known as ashura, the traditional dish is a sweet, pudding-like mixture made with nearly 40 ingredients, including wheat, chickpeas, beans, figs, cinnamon and sugar. In local belief, preparing and sharing ashura during Muharram brings unity, abundance and blessings.
In villages settled by families who migrated from the Balkans – often referred to as “Balkan villages” – large pots of ashura have begun simmering in nearly every home courtyard. These days, the villages are filled with a warm sense of activity as families prepare the seasonal dish together.
As the first light of day appears, women light wood fires in their yards and begin the careful work of preparing the ingredients. Wheat, chickpeas and dried beans – soaked the night before – are combined first, followed by a generous mix of dried fruits such as figs, apricots and raisins, along with nuts like hazelnuts and walnuts.
The process is slow and labor-intensive, but it is also deeply communal. Neighbors help one another, conversations flow, and prayers are often shared as the mixture gradually transforms into a rich, fragrant dish.
In Kuştepe village in the Pehlivanköy district, the ashura preparations of Gülşen Gürses and her mother, Mürvet Gürses have started.
Gürses said to Anadolu Agency (AA) reaching Muharram each year brings a sense of happiness, and that preparing ashura has become an important family tradition they are committed to preserving.
She connected the dish to the story of the Prophet Noah, describing it as a “meal of scarcity,” made when remaining foods were combined in a single pot after the flood. Over time, she said, it has come to symbolize resilience and gratitude.
“We put a little of everything we have into one pot,” she said. “It turns into something very delicious when it all comes together. We cook it over a wood fire, just like our elders did.”
Gürses added that ashura is widely enjoyed and carries lessons that remain relevant today. Blending many different ingredients into one dish, she said, reflects how diverse elements can come together to create something unified and meaningful.
“Even when it feels like all options are gone, there is still something we can put in the pot and share,” she said. “We think about that while we cook and we enjoy it just as much.”
