Dumpling eating is the red line in Georgia.
“I’m not Georgian, but the first rule I learned when I came to Georgia was how to eat khinkali,” said Sergei Shirinsky, who dubs himself a connoisseur.
Typically filled with raw ground beef, herbs and spices, then boiled and served to steam hot in platters by the dozen, Georgian khinkali is a national symbol, a source of pride and the reason behind many a dinner table debate.
“You should know that it’s eaten with hands only. That’s the first rule,” Shirinsky said.
Typically, eaters hold a single khinkali by its tough stem – a clump of dough pinched together during the folding process to bring the dumpling together – and then bite into the soft underbelly, being sure to catch any escaping juices in the process.
The second rule is no condiments.
“If you add something other than pepper, you can go to prison in Georgia,” Shirinsky joked as he maneuvers the fluffy parcel past his mustache, completing a demonstration of how khinkali should be eaten.
The exact origins of the dumpling in Georgia are unclear. However, it has been prepared in towns and villages nationwide for centuries, and different regions still bicker over who invented it and who makes it best.
Modern versions include various stuffing options such as the elastic Georgian Sulguni cheese, mushrooms and potatoes.
Khinkali making has also become a hit among tourists – who flock to the country in their millions every year, in no small part to savor Georgian cuisine.
In the capital Tbilisi, retired doctor Irina Djandieri offers cooking classes in her living room.
“It’s fun, fascinating, and in the end, delicious,” she said.
“Every week we have a khinkali day in our family ... It’s a great excuse to gather with friends and relatives,” said Christine Mamasakhlisi, a dance teacher from Tbilisi, as she picks up an order of uncooked khinkali to boil at home.
“Everything revolves around khinkali here. This is not just a dish; it’s an integral part of Georgian culture and identity.”
