A football stadium in Mariupol, once adorned with the stickers of the local Ukrainian team, now bears the marks of an unconventional takeover.
Armed football ultras from Russia now patrol the stands, their presence a stark reminder of the city's transformation since it fell to Moscow's control after a devastating siege.
The once vibrant logo of FC Mariupol, featuring a seagull and an anchor on an orange and blue background with the city's name spelled in Ukrainian, has been marred by scraping on one dugout.
The overgrown stadium, with a gaping hole in its roof, serves as a haunting symbol of the turmoil that has gripped the city. Bullets litter the athletics track, silent witnesses to the violence that unfolded.
A year on from the city's capture, the stadium now bears an imposing banner that proudly proclaims "GLORY TO RUSSIA."
Above it, Russian and Soviet flags flutter in the wind, a visual testament to the city's new allegiance.
The once-familiar symbols of Ukrainian football have given way to those of Russian clubs, from the famous CSKA of Moscow to St. Petersburg's mighty Zenit.
These symbols were brought by football ultras who, forming a formidable fighting unit known as "Espanola," joined Moscow's offensive.
The Espanola, numbering around 600 members, call Mariupol home and train on the wild beaches of the Azov Sea, just outside the city's war-ravaged boundaries.
Inspired by the hooliganism that emerged in British football, Russia's ultra scene gained traction in the 1990s, earning a reputation for its fierce and passionate supporters.
One member, Mikhail, known as "Pitbull," highlighted the camaraderie that has developed among the Espanola fighters.
Holding a kalashnikov and bearing the tattooed mark of "Espanola" on his shaven head, the Zenit fan shared, "In civilian life, we fought each other, but in the trenches, we stand shoulder to shoulder."
While historically suspicious of the Kremlin, the fighters emphasized that their allegiance lies with the Russian nation, rather than the authorities.
Not all Russian ultra-football fans, known for their far-right views, have joined Moscow's ranks.
The community experienced a profound split when the conflict between Moscow and Kyiv erupted in 2014, with some aligning themselves with Ukraine.
Driving past rows of demolished homes and newly constructed estates overseen by Russia, Andrei, a Moscow Spartak fan, underlined the deepening rift, which was solidified by Russia's full-scale offensive last year.
He expressed his desire to confront the Russian football ultras fighting for Kyiv on the battlefield.
Training on the pristine white sandy beaches, the Espanola unit claims to be involved in offensive and defensive operations, as well as carrying out sabotage missions, under the auspices of the Russian army.
Amid the tranquil setting, fighters, including a woman, diligently practice their marksmanship skills in sniper training sessions.
Some bear insignias adorned with skulls, while others proudly display the black-white-yellow Russian imperial flag.
Yevgeny, a 38-year-old fighter from the eastern Ukrainian city of Gorlivka, revealed that the Russian Defense Ministry has acknowledged the battalion's contributions.
"The latest weapons come to our detachment from the Ministry of Defense because we have proven ourselves very well," he stated with pride during a sniper training exercise.
Until Gorlivka was seized by pro-Russia rebels in 2014, Yevgeny supported FC Shakhtar Donetsk, but his allegiance shifted after the club relocated to the western city of Lviv.
Wearing a scarf emblazoned with a skull, the former football enthusiast turned armed fighter emphasized the discipline and sobriety of the Espanola fighters, stating, "The fact that our guys are all sporty and do not use alcohol – means we are doing good."
