Once a craft that traveled from Aleppo to Kilis has, over the years, reversed direction, this time extending from Kilis back to Aleppo.
In the 1940s, a master who came from Aleppo taught the art of making katmer to a family in Kilis, southeastern Türkiye. Decades later, that lineage has come full circle.
Passed down from grandfather to grandson, the profession has now been taught to a Syrian refugee. The goal is for the young apprentice, after completing his education, to continue the craft in Aleppo using the skills he acquired in Türkiye.
Sinan Gözüuykulu, who has practiced katmer craftsmanship in Kilis for many years, described the journey of the trade within his family. “In 1940, a master from Aleppo taught this profession to my grandfather in Kilis. My grandfather passed it to my father and my father to me. Now, I have taught it to our brother Ahmet."
"The cycle has completely reversed. We are now sending a master to Syria. Ahmet will introduce Kilis katmer, Kilis ‘cennet çamuru and Kilis’ culture and culinary taste there. He has shown a strong aptitude for this craft since the age of 11,” he said.
Customers visiting the shop also praised Kilis katmer. One customer, Servet Çelikbaş, said, “The katmer is excellent. I recommend it to everyone. I want people to experience this flavor.”
Another customer, Metin Karakuş, emphasized that Kilis katmer differs from Gaziantep katmer. “Kilis katmer is well known, and its geographical indication belongs to Kilis. There is katmer in Gaziantep as well, but ours is different. Gaziantep katmer is usually eaten at breakfast and contains semolina. Kilis katmer is made with milk clotted cream, consumed as a dessert, and is not heavy. I recommend everyone try it. They will immediately notice the difference,” he said.
Karakuş also highlighted the shared culinary roots of the region. “From Hatay to Silopi, much of the cuisine in the border provinces is rooted in Aleppo’s culinary tradition. These areas were once Ottoman lands. Our cultures are deeply intertwined. Ahmet, making Kilis katmer there will help strengthen these cultural ties,” he added.
Fifteen-year-old Syrian apprentice Ahmet expressed his feelings by kissing the Turkish flag. Ahmet el-Hulu said, “I came from Syria when I was 1 year old. Here, I learned how to make katmer and künefe. I can prepare many desserts. After I finish school, I plan to introduce the desserts I learned in Türkiye, especially Kilis katmer, in Azez, Aleppo.”
