Travel liberates: a century of Western tourists in Istanbul

Istanbul has always been of interest to many people, as tourist groups pop up on every street corner with curious eyes. Running until Oct. 17, an exquisitely curated collection at the Istanbul Research Institute in Beyoğlu's Tepebaşı neighborhood brings a long story of Western travelers after "travel-mania" was triggered by the Eastern Question. It was a time when mass tourism emerged in the city and tourist guides led travelers on the same route used today: Sultanahmet Square, the Grand Bazaar, Spice Bazaar, Eyüp Mosque, the Bosporus and the Princes' Islands.

The "100 Years of Travelers in Istanbul from the Pierre de Gigord Collection" illustrates the quest of Western tourist groups who were guided by travel companies rather than academic institutions from 1850 to 1950. The exhibition refers to the words of French author and traveler Gerard de Nerval, who criticized the strictly organized life of Europe when he came to Istanbul: "What a bizarre city, this Constantinople! Glamour and destitution, tears and joy; people act more arbitrarily here than anywhere else, but that also comes with more liberties; four different communities coexist without hating one another too much: Turks, Armenians, Greeks and Jews. As children of the same land, they show far more tolerance to one another than our various provincial people or diverse partisan groups ever could."

With the motto of "Travel Liberates!" this commercial adventure, which started in the reign of Ottoman Sultan Abdülmecid I, brought some of the first tourist groups to Istanbul, most of whom were eager to uncover the mysterious stories told about the empire, such as the Sultan's harem, whirling dervishes and even female faces hidden behind veils. Visitors can see many black-and-white photos showing these early travelers in Eyüp Cemetery with a picturesque view, Sirkeci Train Station, the ruins of the city walls, the fountain of Sultan Ahmed III and the Bosporus ferries.

As viewers enter the exhibition venue, scenes from Agatha Christie's famous book-turned-movie "Murder on the Orient Express" capture their attention. The Istanbul-Paris line of the Orient Express in the 19th century was the concrete example of the luxury travel trend among Europeans. Advertisements for Wagons-Lits, the creator of the long-distance passenger service, demonstrate that the company made no concessions to comfort, cuisine and music for its special customers. Until 1977, this route remained a cultural icon and turned the city into an inspirational source for books and plays, and posters for some of these are also on display. Additionally, these wealthy Europeans were also nice targets for thieves. A photo dated May 31, 1891, points to an attack by bandits on the Orient Express near Çerkezköy. During the incident, the thieves ran away with 40,000 pounds, and five German hostages were ransomed for 8,000 pounds.

Posters of sea voyages and airline companies that feature scenes of the city's notable sights also demonstrate a successful marketing campaign. In the 1850s, cruise ships began to depart from Marseille, France, to Istanbul. In particular, this route was preferred by Young Turks escaping from the rule of Abdülhamid II. And the first scheduled flights started in the 20th century. A French-Romanian airline company used to fly to Istanbul via Vienna, Budapest and Belgrade.

The last section of the exhibition is mostly devoted to travelers' photos and how they enjoyed their time around the city. Pera Palace, Tokatlıyan and Bristol were the three hotels that hosted middle- and upper-class tourists from Europe. Moreover, commercial adventure ignited a new industry sector in the mid-19th century: Hotel management. Porcelain dinner sets shown in a glass cabinet addressed the European bourgeoisie's taste. Built for affluent customers of Wagons-Lit, the Pera Palace Hotel was the most famous one, which opened in 1895. The hotel reflects both Orientalism and the eclectic style of the period. In the same section, travel guides not only for Istanbul but also for Gallipoli, the Princes' Islands and Asia Minor in different languages can be seen as well.

Curated by Ekrem Işın and Catherine Pinguet, the exhibition displays a wide range of materials from newspaper articles to menus and tickets collected by French businessman Pierre de Gigord, who lived and worked in Istanbul. According to the website Enthusiasts in Art, he began to make yearly trips to the Bosporus that he financed by bringing traditional Turkish crafts, such as jewelry and textiles, to France. He also collected photos of Constantinople, the Balkans and some other cities like İzmir. His collection introduces the work of more than 165 photographers, and entrance is free of charge.