A city can sometimes feel like a film that never changes, and at other times, like a chase scene that is constantly in motion.
The name Eminönü carries a historical significance rooted in its role during the Ottoman period. It derives from the term “gümrük eminliği,” meaning customs administration or customs authority. Eminönü was the district where the customs authority was located, overseeing trade and commerce activities at the heart of Istanbul’s bustling port. The word “emin” refers to an official or steward responsible for managing a particular duty, while “önü” signifies in front of. Thus, Eminönü literally means “in front of the customs authority,” reflecting the area’s importance as a center of trade and maritime commerce.
This etymology highlights Eminönü’s long-standing connection to Istanbul’s commercial life, reinforcing its identity as a trading hub and a gateway between land and sea for centuries. Even today, Eminönü retains this character, bustling with merchants, shoppers and travelers, a living testament to its historical roots.
On Dec. 14, 2024, the TRT Documentary Days hosted the premiere of “24 Hours of a Square – Eminönü,” directed by Mualla Karabulut. Set in the historic Fişekhane, a restored Ottoman industrial landmark in Istanbul, the documentary revisits the timeless Eminönü Square, juxtaposing its vibrant life today with its ever rhythms captured in 1977.
The original “24 Hours of a Square – Eminönü” was part of the “Istanbul’s Four Squares” project, produced by TRT in 1977 to document the social and cultural pulse of Istanbul through its most iconic public spaces. Directed by renowned TRT filmmaker Orhan Tuncel, the documentary captured a single day in this bustling center of trade, travel and culture. Orhan Tuncel was not only a visionary documentarian but also a pioneer of underwater filmmaking in Türkiye, expanding the boundaries of documentary storytelling with his groundbreaking work.
Forty-seven years later, Karabulut’s team returned to the same square to pay homage to this visual time capsule. The result is a poetic journey that bridges past and present, blending archival footage with modern imagery to showcase the enduring heartbeat of Istanbul.
This film holds a particularly personal significance for me. 1977, the year of the original documentary, is also the year I was born. Eminönü Square was one of the first places that truly captivated me when I arrived in Istanbul. Its energy – ferries gliding across the Golden Horn, the hum of street vendors and the ceaseless motion of people – remains unparalleled. Before attending the screening, I dropped my wife and daughter off at Eminönü, where they wandered through the square’s maze of shops. For decades, people have come here not just to shop but also to experience the unique atmosphere of Istanbul – an irresistible blend of tradition and trade.
In contrast to Taksim Square, which has historically been a stage for demonstrations associated with leftist and working-class movements and Beyazıt Square, a platform for religious gatherings and student protests, Eminönü Square stands apart. It has remained untouched by such ideological movements, serving instead as a bustling commercial hub defined by relentless trade and perpetual movement. Eminönü’s identity is shaped by its ceaseless flux of people – locals, tourists, traders – constantly arriving and departing. This perpetual motion makes it difficult to ascribe a single, cohesive identity to the square. Eminönü is, above all, a place of transit and transaction – a timeless crossroads of commerce.
Eminönü is more than just a marketplace. It is a living theater where people interact with the past and present. The square still hums with timeless rituals, like feeding pigeons, an almost sacred act that draws locals and tourists alike to scatter seeds amid fluttering wings. Yet, the documentary reminds us of professions that have quietly disappeared with time. The pulse measurers, who once gauged health with a simple touch and the mobile weight scale operators, who would weigh people on rudimentary scales, are fleeting glimpses of a bygone era preserved in the 1977 footage. These small trades were once woven into the daily rhythm of Eminönü, a rhythm that has evolved but not forgotten its essence.
Eminönü’s residents are not only people. Seagulls sweep across the sky, ferryboats drift in and out of the harbor, and the sea itself mirrors the pulse of the city. Standing proudly with their domes and minarets, the mosques share a timeless gaze with the Galata Tower, watching over the square from across the water. The sound of ferry horns and the cries of vendors selling grilled fish sandwiches, roasted chestnuts, and steaming corn blend seamlessly with the sights and sounds of a square teeming with life.
The Grand Bazaar, featured in the documentary, serves as a reminder of Eminönü’s centuries-old role as a cornerstone of Istanbul’s commerce. Intertwined with the film’s visuals are excerpts of Orhan Veli’s poetry, his words lending a timeless lyricism to the square’s evolving identity. Mualla Karabulut’s vision ensures that this is not just a documentary – it is a poetic tribute to a place where the past lives on in every stone, every shop and every tradition.
TRT’s dedication to cultural preservation is evident here. By seamlessly weaving together the sights and sounds of 1977 with those of 2024, “24 Hours of a Square – Eminönü” becomes a testament to TRT’s role as a memory archive and a bridge to the future. It reminds us that places like Eminönü are not just spaces – they are living stories etched into the fabric of a city.
For those who missed the premiere, this extraordinary documentary will soon air on TRT Belgesel. It will offer viewers a chance to experience a day in the life of Eminönü, an Istanbul square where the city's spirit comes alive.
