The Consulate General of Ukraine in Istanbul proudly presented the revered borscht soup, which was inscribed on UNESCO's prestigious List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2022. This culturally significant dish took center stage at the Deraliye Restaurant in Sultanahmet, graced with Michelin stars for the years 2023 and 2024, symbolizing its exceptional status in Ukrainian culture. The personally curated preparation and presentation by Consul General Roman Nedilsky and diplomat Liudmyla Nedilska, the consul general's spouse, highlighted the deep-rooted cultural nuances encapsulated within this iconic soup.
"Today, we are unveiling the soul of the Ukrainian people to Turkish society, and we take great pride in it. Borscht is not merely a soup; it encapsulates the essence of Ukrainian society, a quintessential facet of our culture. It carries with it the weight of centuries of Ukrainian history. Thousands of years ago, people were already preparing borscht soup and this tradition endures to this day," expressed Nedilsky.
"To dispel any misconceptions, it's important to note that borscht can be found in other countries as well, but it is an original dish of the Ukrainian community, officially recognized by UNESCO," he added.
Beyond its culinary essence, Ukrainian borscht symbolizes unity and family cohesion within the community. Despite boasting over 100 different recipes and being a uniquely flavored creation shaped by the individual touch of each homemaker, this soup manages to unite Ukrainians under a multitude of important societal values. Moreover, borscht represents a way of life. Many cultural events and festivals are dedicated to it, showcasing the deep-rooted connection of Ukrainians to this iconic dish. The consul general shares stories of individuals raising five children during the war, sustaining their families with a pot of borscht crafted from the vegetables grown in their gardens.
This revered dish also takes its place on the table during Christmas Eve dinners, coinciding with Christian belief's nativity story of the appearance of the eastern sky when Jesus was born. This festive and fasting meal, consisting of 12 distinct dishes excluding land-animal ingredients, features Christmas Eve borscht, which adheres to vegetarian or fish-based options, typically omitting sour cream. The variations may include sauteed vegetables in vegetable oil instead of lard, incorporating beans and mushrooms.
The consul general also reveals that in the Crimean Peninsula, Muslims flavor their borscht with the waters of the Tuna River and prepare it with lamb. Mothers even go to the extent of subjecting prospective daughters-in-law to a borscht exam before approving their sons' marriages, making decisions only after assessing their culinary skills. So, the soup is in every corner of the community.
Above all, and most importantly, borscht soup serves as a tool to assess purchasing power and gauge the actual inflation of Ukraine's national currency, the hryvnia. It is called the "Borscht index" – a significant measure of life in Ukraine, akin to the well-known "Big Mac index."
In terms of its cultural significance, following the Russian invasion of Ukraine, UNESCO highlighted that "the armed conflict has jeopardized the viability of this cultural element. The displacement of people and custodians threatens the tradition, as individuals struggle to cook or cultivate local vegetables for borscht and find it challenging to come together to practice this cultural tradition. This undermines the social and cultural well-being of communities."
According to the original recipe, borscht soup is left inside an oven for 15-16 hours, but the consul general and his wife completed and served it within a few hours. Accompanying the soup were "vareniki" (Ukrainian dumplings), particularly showcased as a hospitality gesture, and "uzvar" (dried fruit compote). Besides the delightful taste of the soup, the soft and warm "pampushky" (Ukrainian garlic bread) created a sense of dining in Ukraine.
Distinguished chefs from previous seasons of the MasterChef Türkiye TV program, such as Araz Aknam, Burak Revanbahş, Gamze Tosun, and Hamza Mercimek, alongside chef Necati Yılmaz from Deraliye Restaurant, participated in the event, savoring these culinary delights.
