Before going out for a meal, I first decide what to eat followed by where I should go to eat that dish. This time, I decided to eat kebab. I prefer to look for good food instead of simply a good restaurant. Sometimes, I see very nicely decorated restaurants, but the food is lacking. The opposite can also occur where I experience good food but below average ambiance. There is rarely a convergence of these two features; however, Ramazan Bingöl Steakhouses are precisely the places in Istanbul where an inviting atmosphere meets delicious food.

The restaurant's founder and namesake, Ramazan Bingöl, was born in 1967 in the southeastern province of Şanlıurfa and was unable to continue his education after primary school. To make a living, he first became an apprentice at a barbershop and then began working in a restaurant. More than 20 years later, with ample experience in restaurant management and entrepreneurship as well as his withdrawal from a partnership in another restaurant, he decided to open his own steakhouse. Now, he has two books about managing restaurants under his belt and is also a gastronomy writer for the Yeni Şafak daily. Bingöl aims to represent his own local culture to his guests. There are three Ramazan Bingöl restaurants in Istanbul: One in Esenler, one in Bayrampaşa and another in Ümraniye. I visited the Esenler branch where the design and ambiance reflects the magnificence and the glory of Ottoman palaces. You will feel you are far away from the rumble of the city while watching the poultry that wander in the botanical garden. The animals in the garden eat leftovers; so, even if you cannot finish your meal, no leftover goes to waste at his restaurants. Moreover, the restaurants are perfect spots for business meetings and family meals with children.

What to eat

I highly recommend the zirh kebab as a main dish accompanied by tamarind syrup to drink. Tamarind syrup is a special sorbet that has been very popular since Ottoman times. It is not only a beverage but is also good for health. It stabilizes your gut's natural flora and contains vitamin B3, which is important for a functional nervous system and plays a role in digesting and processing fats. For desert, you should try the trilece. This desert hails from Bosnia and Herzegovina and means "three milks" in Bosnian. This milky cake is made with buffalo milk and served with caramel. It's a delicious, light dessert.

Ramazan Bingöl's unique features

Bingöl aims to make his name a world brand, so he also sells Ramazan Bingöl-branded eau de cologne, perfume, salt, coffee, sorbet, cheese, pastrami and more at his stores. When we ask why he sells these products, he said: "Emporio Armani is a designer but has a cafe in his name. Why can't Ramazan Bingöl also be a world famous brand?" People can also buy goods on his website.

If you want to experience the original culture of Şanlıurfa, you should go to the Bayrampaşa branch on Friday evening. There, you will witness the culture of "sıra gecesi." Sıra gecesi is indicative of men who are 18 or older coming together at a house on winter nights. An indispensable part of sira gecesi is to offer "çiğ köfte," (a dish made of raw meat, bulgur and spices) and desert to guests. No alcohol is consumed during these nights, and depending on the tendency of the group of friends, most of the time is spent having conversations. Sıra gecesi are gatherings of affection, sincerity, art, literature, history and – in the words of wise men – for educating apprentices, exhibiting beauty and the musicality of poems. Music is also played on sira nights, and the music follows a specific sequence, which is called the "makam" tradition in Şanlıurfa. In this sequence, türküs (a kind of ballad), gazels (a kind of lyric) and hoyrats (a kind of poem from folk literature) are generally sung. In this respect, Şanlıurfa sira nights serve as a public conservatory. With this brief information about the culture and experience, now you are ready to enjoy the original culture of a Şanlıurfa sira night in Istanbul while eating delicious food.

Ramazan Bingöl is a "glocal" man – a local with global vision. He makes steak köfte, which is also a glocal food. We were fortunate to get the recipe for steak köfte and tamarind syrup for Daily Sabah readers. Enjoy it at home but remember: Culinary masters share recipes in a way that will never match the original.