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Vendors behind the carts on Istanbul's streets

by Gülşah Dark

ISTANBUL Dec 29, 2015 - 12:00 am GMT+3
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by Gülşah Dark Dec 29, 2015 12:00 am

Istanbul has some of the liveliest street life with vendors on every corner. Each vendor takes their spot every day or strolls along the streets to draw as many customers as possible. What they experience throughout a day only serves to make them more intriguing

The weather might be cold outside, especially early in the morning, but Istanbul's street vendors have already taken their usual spots around the city with their carts before Istanbulites head to work. On any street corner or near any bus stop, shoe shiners, simit (bagel), pastry, stuffed mussel, flower or lottery ticket sellers and picklers as well as carts selling grilled fish or grilled köfte (meatballs) are often around trying to sell their goods. On the European side, the neighborhoods of Taksim, Sultanahmet, Eminönü and Karaköy are where street life is the liveliest, with each vendor either shouting or grabbing the interest of passersby merely through the distinct smell of the food they sell. Sometimes they wander along streets like those with carts selling sahlep (a traditional hot beverage) that you may come across even in front of your workplace. Street vending culture has become an interwoven part of Istanbul's daily life but not much is known about the men behind the carts who spend most of their time outside. We spotlighted some scenes from the every-day life of different street vendors to experience how street life unfolds around them.

Simit sellers


If you feel hungry while strolling outside, simit is what you can find in abundance on the street. Red simit trolleys, some of which are run by municipalities, can be seen everywhere. Simit sellers wake up at dawn to take dozens of fresh and hot simits from bakeries. Some sellers take their spots near metrobus stations, where passersby buy simit for breakfast. These days, simit sellers are getting more creative and adding different fillings like Nutella, white cheese with tomatoes and olive tapenade. Lucky simit sellers empty their carts by noon and get some more for the afternoon and evening. On İstiklal Avenue, it is often possible to see simit sellers even until 10:00 p.m.

Lottery vendors

Only a few days are left until the New Year, which means lottery vendors are experiencing their busiest time of the year. They arrange tiny lottery slips on small tables every day. Similar to previous years, a special New Year's lottery will be held on Dec. 31 by Milli Piyango, the National Lottery Administration. This week, you may see them calling "Yılbaşı çekilişi için son günler!" (Last days for the New Year's lottery!) and "Bu akşam, bu akşam çekiliyor" (Tonight, the lottery will be drawn tonight!). Some senior vendors take people's interest by wearing a hat with a big bird, referring to the symbol of the national lottery. Lotteries take place throughout the year, so vendors have regular customers. You may see them frequently in Topkapı, Şişhane, İstiklal Avenue, Eminönü and Bakırköy. If you know Turkish, talk to them. Most of them have excelled at persuading people to buy lottery tickets.

Shoe shiners


With their Ottoman-style boxes, Istanbul's shoe shiners continue a deep-rooted tradition on the busy streets around the city. Although their numbers have diminished in recent years, the remaining shoe shiners still earn a living from this profession. Sitting on small stools, they wait all day for customers with dusty shoes, often in the same spot each day. The hands of most shoe shiners go black as they continuously use shoe polish. A shoe shiner with their kit hanging over their shoulder loiters around tourist venues like the Grand Bazaar and the Spice Bazaar. Some shoe shiners may, however, scam tourists with their tricky behaviors. So, if a shoe shiner drops their brush in front of you, beware - picking it up as a kind gesture could lead to the unwanted thinning of your wallet.

Köfte ekmek sellers

Alongside Eminönü's famous balık ekmek (grilled mackerel sandwiches) sellers working hard behind a smoking grill, "köftecis" (meatball vendor) setting up their spot at various locations in the city are also impossible to miss. They prepare meat sandwiches made using a special mixture of spices, including thyme and cumin. On the one side of his cart, there are fresh vegetables served between two halves of white bread with the grilled meaballs. Small stools are placed around the cart, where customers enjoy their meal while looking over the Bosporus. Some popular köfte ekmek sellers are located near the Kabataş ferry dock, where their carts are generally surrounded by hungry customers.
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