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Two cities, two culinary souls: Istanbul, London’s dining divergence

by Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu

London Jun 23, 2025 - 2:01 pm GMT+3
A taste of Anatolian tradition, served at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)
A taste of Anatolian tradition, served at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)
by Neslişah Yılmaz Hidayetoğlu Jun 23, 2025 2:01 pm

Istanbul and London offer two distinct visions of fine dining—one rooted in tradition and fire, the other in modernity and refinement

In recent years, the global culinary scene has become a tale of two cities: Istanbul and London, each with its own rhythm, soul and flavors. While London dazzles with its cosmopolitan polish, Michelin stars and theatrical dining rooms, Istanbul whispers with ancestral secrets, fire-lit rituals and an emotional connection to its roots. Both cities boast world-class restaurants, yet what defines "fine dining" in each place can differ significantly. Alaf, helmed by the bold and poetic Chef Deniz Temel, is a powerful example of the new wave of restaurants that capture Istanbul’s evolving identity.

To understand how Alaf stands apart - and how it compares to the luxury-driven, globalized dining landscape of London - we must look deeper into what diners truly seek: not just taste, but meaning.

A taste of Anatolian tradition, served at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)
A taste of Anatolian tradition, served at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)

Culinary bridge across continents

Turkish cuisine, like the country itself, is a bridge between continents, histories, and identities. Rich with influences from the Ottoman Empire, the Levant, Central Asia and the Mediterranean, it is a culinary language spoken in many dialects — from the smoky kebabs of Gaziantep to the olive oil-kissed vegetables of the Aegean, the hearty grains of Anatolia, and the delicate seafood of the Bosphorus.

Yet, amidst modern culinary trends and globalization, something extraordinary is happening in Istanbul — where tradition and innovation meet over glowing embers. At the center of this culinary renaissance are star chefs including Fatih Tutak (Turk), Maksut Aşkar (Neolokal), Mehmet Gürs (Mikla) and Chef Deniz Temel, the founder and creative mind behind Alaf, one of the city’s most intriguing dining destinations. Nestled in Kuruçeşme, with a terrace overlooking the Bosphorus, Alaf is more than a restaurant — it’s an edible love letter to Türkiye’s forgotten flavors and untold food stories.

Chef Deniz’s path is anything but ordinary. Having trained in globally recognized kitchens, from Copenhagen to Dubai, he returned to Türkiye with a vision: to reconnect people with the raw, elemental power of fire and the ancestral flavors of the Anatolian table. In naming his restaurant Alaf - an old Turkish word for flame - he not only honored the act of cooking over fire but also symbolized a deeper mission: to revive culinary memory.

Chef Deniz Temel at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)
Chef Deniz Temel at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)

Technique, theater, tasting menus

London is a global food capital. Its best restaurants - think Core by Clare Smyth, The Ledbury, or Gymkhana - are defined by precision, theatrical service and global influences. There’s a certain sophistication to London’s culinary scene: waiters glide silently, menus come with curated wine pairings and dishes arrive like modern art.

Innovation in London is often about technique. Whether it’s a twelve-course tasting menu at Helene Darroze or a Japanese-Peruvian fusion concept in Mayfair, chefs push boundaries through scientific methods, global sourcing and avant-garde presentation.

Yet while London impresses, it can also feel detached — the emotional link to food, family and place often takes a backseat to style and status.

A traditional Anatolian pide served at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)
A traditional Anatolian pide served at Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)

New language of Anatolian cuisine

What Chef Deniz does at Alaf is neither fusion nor pure tradition. It’s a reawakening of what lies in the soil, in oral history and in the rituals of rural life. His dishes are poetic reinterpretations of classic Anatolian food, crafted with modern finesse but grounded in authenticity. A bowl of keşkek, a ceremonial wheat and lamb dish typically served at weddings, is deconstructed and rebuilt with artistic elegance. Wild herbs from eastern plateaus are paired with rare cheeses from remote villages, and even the bread, baked daily over a flame, carries the soul of a thousand years of nomadic life.

At Alaf, every plate is a conversation between past and present — between the grandmother’s kitchen and the chef’s artistry. Deniz Temel doesn’t just cook; he narrates. He brings lesser-known dishes and regional ingredients to the forefront, giving them the spotlight they’ve long deserved. In his hands, the rustic becomes refined and the forgotten becomes unforgettable.

Fire kitchen: Ritual, romance

The open-fire kitchen at Alaf is both performance and philosophy. It’s not there for aesthetic appeal — it is the beating heart of the restaurant. Everything from lamb neck to wild mushrooms is kissed by smoke, char and flame, enhancing flavors in a way that no sous-vide or high-tech technique ever could. This primal method of cooking also reconnects guests with a deeper, slower way of eating.

The flame, in Turkish culture, has always been symbolic — of hospitality, gathering and protection. In Alaf’s fire-lit space, Chef Deniz invites diners not just to eat, but to share, reflect and return to something elemental.

A general view of Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)
A general view of Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)

Sourcing as storytelling

Enter Istanbul, a city that cooks with its memory. While London may dazzle, Istanbul seduces — slowly, subtly and with soul. The city’s best restaurants are not always defined by stars, but by flavor, storytelling and cultural intimacy. This is where Alaf stands out.

Unlike many restaurants in London that prioritize international ingredients and imported prestige, Alaf is rooted in the land. One of the most remarkable aspects of Alaf is its commitment to terroir. Every ingredient has a story and every producer is treated as part of the creative team. Deniz works closely with local shepherds, farmers, cheesemakers and fishermen to ensure that his ingredients are not just fresh but ethically and regionally sourced. The olive oil might come from Ayvalık, the herbs from Hakkari and the fish from the Marmara — but nothing arrives in his kitchen without intention.

Atmosphere: Wild, warm

In London, fine dining often means exclusivity: white tablecloths, hushed tones, designer interiors. It’s about escaping the outside world into a bubble of curated perfection.

In Istanbul, the ambience is part of the story. The fire pit is open. Walking into Alaf feels like stepping into a dream somewhere between a nomadic tent and a bohemian artist’s loft. Rustic textures, earthy tones, flickering lights and views of the Bosphorus create a backdrop that is at once intimate and expansive. The service is polished yet personal, the music eclectic but soothing, and the staff knowledgeable yet relaxed.

Unlike many fine-dining establishments that feel intimidating or overly polished, Alaf is approachable, soulful and deeply human. It is as much a place for curious locals rediscovering their roots as it is for international food lovers eager to taste the true spirit of Türkiye.

It’s no surprise that Chef Deniz has become a figure of inspiration among young Turkish chefs, many of whom are now seeking to blend tradition with innovation rather than mimicking Western models. In interviews and in person, he speaks not just about flavor but also about identity, memory, and belonging. For him, food is a form of resistance—against forgetting and fast-paced consumerism.

“I want people to remember where they came from,” he once said, “and where their food comes from too.”

Interior view of Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)
Interior view of Alaf. (Courtesy of Alaf)

Future of Turkish cuisine

In a world increasingly dominated by sameness, Alaf and Chef Deniz Temel offer something rare: sincerity. Through fire, foraged ingredients, ancient techniques and bold imagination, they show that Turkish cuisine is not a relic of the past but a living, breathing art form with endless room to grow. Sincerity is, in fact, the common ingredient in the new Turkish chef scene. While Maksut Aşkar redefines classic recipes - including his family recipes - Zeynep Pınar Taşdemir focuses on local and seasonal ingredients and adds creativity to the simplest combinations.

Another key difference between the two cities is the role of the chef. In London, chefs are often a brand. Their names are on cookbooks, TV shows and global restaurant empires. While impressive, this often results in a distance between the chef and the diner.

Deniz is present. He often walks through the tables, talks to guests, and explains a dish’s origin. He is not a celebrity; he is a storyteller, a cultural archivist, a craftsman. He doesn’t chase stars — he revives stories. In that way, Alaf offers an intimacy that’s rare even among London’s finest.

Whether you are a local or just passing through Istanbul, a night at Alaf or any other chef-driven restaurant sharing these principles is more than dinner — it is an awakening to the yet unknown depths of Turkish cuisine.

Where to dine

To complement the rich narrative of Istanbul’s evolving culinary identity and London’s refined dining scene, here are some standout restaurants that capture the essence of each city’s flavor and style:

London highlights

Sketch (Mayfair): Iconic for its whimsical interiors and Michelin-starred tasting menus, a favorite among fashion lovers and artists.

A dish from the fine dining menu at Sketch. (Sketch on Instagram)
A dish from the fine dining menu at Sketch. (Sketch on Instagram)

Chiltern Firehouse (Marylebone): Celebrity hotspot offering modern European dishes in a stylishly converted fire station.

Gymkhana (Mayfair): Award-winning Indian cuisine served with the ambiance of a colonial club.

Dishoom (Multiple locations): Nostalgic Bombay-style comfort food, always bustling with fans.

CORE by Clare Smyth (Notting Hill): Three Michelin stars and refined British cuisine, known for artistic plating and precision.

Istanbul gems

Alaf (Kuruçeşme): Chef Deniz Temel’s fire-driven kitchen that melds Anatolian roots with modern presentation, delivering a poetic and sensory dining experience.

Mikla (Beyoğlu): Where Scandinavian culinary precision meets Turkish soul, complemented by breathtaking rooftop views over the Bosphorus.

Tershane (Karaköy): A contemporary take on the traditional meyhane, featuring small plates, bold cocktails and a youthful, vibrant atmosphere.

Turkish coffee and a dessert served at Tershane Karaköy. (Tershane karaköy on Instagram)
Turkish coffee and a dessert served at Tershane Karaköy. (Tershane karaköy on Instagram)

Yeni Lokanta (Beyoğlu): Led by Chef Civan Er, this restaurant offers modern Turkish cuisine with heartfelt flavors and refined aesthetics.

Muutto (Galataport): An Anatolian tapas bar telling stories of migration through flavor, blending culture, spice and innovation under Chef Umut Karakuş’s vision.

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