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Chasing speed on ice under Northern Lights

by FUNDA KARAYEL

ARVIDSJAUR, Sweden Mar 02, 2026 - 2:01 pm GMT+3
The Northern Lights in Arvidsjaur, Sweden. (Shutterstock Photo)
The Northern Lights in Arvidsjaur, Sweden. (Shutterstock Photo)
by FUNDA KARAYEL Mar 02, 2026 2:01 pm

There are mornings when the world feels paused, as if the day is holding its breath. The sky is pale, the air sharp and everything seems quieter than usual. This is how the north welcomes you. Some moments visit a human life only once. The sky suddenly turns green, violet, then soft pink; the earth falls silent and time loosens its grip.

This year, all the signs are aligned. Solar activity is strong, nights are long and the skies are clear. We believe it: this is the year we will catch that impossible moment. We are heading north, into the cold heart of winter, to witness a phenomenon that feels less like weather and more like a message from the universe. Our destination is Arvidsjaur, deep in the Swedish tundra. The plane touches down, the door opens and there it is.

The auroras in Arvidsjaur, Sweden, March 1, 2026. (Photo by Funda Karayel)
The auroras in Arvidsjaur, Sweden, March 1, 2026. (Photo by Funda Karayel)

The aurora, already waiting. No transition, no warmup. Just arrival and wonder. It feels unreal, almost unfairly beautiful, as if the sky decided to offer a private welcome. I’ve seen many beautiful things, but this kind of greeting stays with you. It rearranges your sense of scale. Imagine a day that begins with aurora and ends on ice.

Speed on ice

If one experience has defined this journey, it’s driving on ice. I mean literally – on a frozen lake that becomes a racetrack, a car beneath you and nothing but ice stretching in every direction. As a guest of Volkswagen Türkiye, I recently had the chance to try ice driving with their cars and it was more than just a drive. It was something you felt rather than analyzed.

Sliding across a white expanse, extreme conditions became a playground. Intuition met instinct and every lap felt like a dialogue between me and the car. Before hitting the track, we had a briefing and some training, but once out there, the car showed its character without charts, specs, or numbers. Every drift, every correction, demanded focus and poise and the cold quickly became part of the experience rather than a distraction.

Here, in one of the world’s most respected winter testing grounds, it wasn’t about showing off or chasing speed. It was about feeling performance in its rawest, most demanding form and discovering how much the car and driver can really communicate when there’s nothing but ice between them.

An aerial view shows cars navigating the snowy terrain in Arvidsjaur, Sweden, March 1, 2026. (Photo by Funda Karayel)
An aerial view shows cars navigating the snowy terrain in Arvidsjaur, Sweden, March 1, 2026. (Photo by Funda Karayel)

Snowmobiles

Mornings begin with snowmobiles. Engines hum, helmets close and suddenly you are flying across glaciers and forests wrapped in white. The cold is biting, but the movement keeps you warm. Snowmobiles here are not about adrenaline alone; they are about access. They take you deep into landscapes that feel untouched, where the only sounds are wind and your own breath. It’s a reminder that in the North, distance is measured differently not in kilometers, but in silence.

Funda Karayel rides a snowmobile in Arvidsjaur, Sweden, March 1, 2026. (Photo by Funda Karayel)
Funda Karayel rides a snowmobile in Arvidsjaur, Sweden, March 1, 2026. (Photo by Funda Karayel)

Tour with huskies

Then there is the husky tour. No engine this time. Just dogs, runners on snow and a rhythm that feels older than any modern adventure. The dogs know the way. You learn quickly to trust them, to relax into the motion. Gliding over frozen lakes and through forests, you realize how travel used to feel before speed became obsession. It is simple, physical, honest and unexpectedly emotional. Sweden is the right destination for an exceptional driving experience. Here, the tundra becomes a classroom.

Different drive systems, bare ice, controlled conditions but raw nature all around. Over four days in Arvidsjaur, you don’t just test cars; you test perception, patience and presence. Aurora is never guaranteed. That’s part of its power. Some believe that seeing the Northern Lights grants a wish, that in that moment, you breathe in sync with the universe. Maybe it lasts minutes, maybe hours. But once you’ve seen it, really seen it, it stays with you. Some experiences can be repeated. Others belong to a single chapter of your life. Speed on ice, silence on snow, and light dancing above you in the Arctic sky how many times do we truly get moments like this?

What to eat in Sweden?

Swedish cuisine may look simple at first glance, but it’s rich in tradition and comfort. If you’re in Sweden, these are the must-try dishes that truly define the local food culture:

Köttbullar: The iconic Swedish meatballs, served with creamy gravy, mashed or boiled potatoes, and lingonberry jam. Classic, balanced and deeply comforting.

Gravlax: Cured salmon with dill, sugar, and salt, usually paired with mustard sauce. Light, fresh and unmistakably Nordic.

Cinnamon Buns (Kanelbullar): The star of fika, Sweden’s daily coffee ritual. Soft, fragrant and impossible to stop at one.

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  • Last Update: Mar 02, 2026 3:08 pm
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