In one of the world’s largest industries – fashion and textiles – nothing is ever purely emotional. Every deal made under the umbrella of major fashion conglomerates carries not only trends but also strategic considerations beyond appearances. One of the most talked-about recent stories in the fashion world, which may have seemed trivial to some, is: “Fashion designer John Galliano will create a special collection for Zara. The agreement between the two parties will last two years.”
Many might think, “So what? We’ve seen designers collaborate with fast-fashion brands before.” But to fully understand the significance of this partnership, some context is essential.
One of the parties in the deal is Zara, the flagship brand of the Spanish Inditex group. Many may remember Zara’s shocking advertisement in 2023. During one of the deadliest periods of Israel’s operations in Gaza, while global media were reporting images of Palestinian children wrapped in shrouds, Zara released an ad campaign that bore a disturbing resemblance to scenes of death and destruction in Gaza.
The promotional images for Zara’s jacket collection, posted earlier this month on its official social media channels, featured mannequins wrapped in plastic amidst rubble and torn plaster. One photo showed a model holding a mannequin wrapped in a white sheet, which many social media users said resembled a corpse. The ad shocked viewers worldwide.
After the backlash, Zara withdrew the campaign and issued a statement to CNN, claiming that the campaign “presents a series of images of unfinished sculptures in a sculptor’s workshop and was created to showcase entirely handmade garments in an artistic context.”
During the escalation of Israel’s operations across the region, Zara also made headlines for allegedly funding the election campaign of Israel’s National Security Minister, Ben-Gvir. At a time when the brand faced global boycotts, it suddenly announced a collaboration with a famous designer – John Galliano, who had long been absent from the public eye.
John Galliano was, by almost any standard, one of the most talented designers in fashion history. Until 2011, his work inspired admiration worldwide. His collections as the creative director of French fashion house Dior were theatrical, groundbreaking and mesmerizing. Even today, his Dior-era designs serve as a source of inspiration for both Dior and countless other designers.
However, 15 years ago, his career took a dramatic turn. A video recorded in a Parisian bar showed Galliano making racist remarks toward a Jewish couple while under the influence of alcohol. He was subsequently taken to court and his contract with Dior was terminated.
The footage, which included Galliano saying, “I love Hitler” and expressing support for the Nazis’ actions against Jews, caused an uproar. Jewish Hollywood stars publicly condemned him, declaring that someone who endorsed genocide had no place in Dior or the fashion industry. Following the scandal, Galliano was virtually blacklisted; he was shunned by almost the entire fashion world.
The turning point came only after Israel’s recent high-profile cross-border operations. Suddenly, Galliano’s Dior-era designs became popular among Hollywood stars, with his early-2000s collections selling out in vintage stores and celebrities wearing his creations on red carpets.
Then Zara, under global boycott pressures, announced the special collection with Galliano, drawing immediate attention. In just 15 years, both the world and the fashion industry had shifted significantly. Even the fashion magazines and newspapers that once harshly criticized Galliano reported the collaboration with a neutral, matter-of-fact tone.
After a brief stint with the alternative fashion house Maison Martin Margiela, Galliano had been absent from major fashion circles for two years. His partnership with Zara marks a symbolic return to the global fashion stage.
