One of Chamonix’s most iconic experiences begins with a little red train winding its way through the heart of the Alps. The historic Train du Montenvers takes travelers on a breathtaking journey toward the slopes of Mont Blanc, through a landscape that feels almost too beautiful to be real.
The final stop is Montenvers, a mountain station surrounded by dramatic peaks and unforgettable views. And waiting there is one of the Alps’ most extraordinary natural wonders: the legendary Mer de Glace, or “Sea of Ice.” The mysterious ice cave hidden within the glacier is the perfect final surprise at the end of this magical journey.
When I was preparing my first Chamonix travel guide, I quickly realized there were far too many memories and experiences to fit into a single article. This destination deserved more than one story.
As I mentioned in my previous guide, Chamonix is not just a place to visit during ski season. To me, it is a destination for every season. Some places have a way of staying with you so deeply that, after leaving, you find yourself imagining what they must look like in spring, summer, autumn and winter.
Chamonix became one of those places for me. Almost a month has passed since I returned, yet my mind still wanders back to those mountains and I still find myself looking at flight options to return.
Before our trip, my list of things to do in Chamonix was already quite long. One experience that stood out the most was finding a way to get closer to Mont Blanc with our 4-year-old son.
Of course, one of the most famous experiences in Chamonix is reaching the summit of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe. However, due to the high altitude, climbing to the summit is not recommended for young children. Since we were traveling with our son, we decided not to take that risk.
But after coming all this way, I still wanted us to experience the magic of the mountains at a higher altitude. While researching alternatives, I discovered something that turned out to be perfect for families: a journey aboard the historic red Montenvers train.
The idea of traveling through the Alps on a century-old railway and arriving at a glacier sounded incredible. But what made this journey even more special was what awaited us at the top: a frozen landscape shaped by thousands of years of nature, along with the famous ice cave carved into the glacier.
Before sharing our experience, let me introduce you to this beautiful train journey.
The Train du Montenvers immediately reminded me of those famous red mountain trains often seen in Switzerland travel videos – the ones that slowly climb through the Alps, surrounded by endless peaks and postcard-worthy scenery.
The journey itself feels like stepping into a storybook. The train follows a spectacular route through the mountains, offering panoramic views of the Chamonix Valley from different angles.
To begin the journey, you need to cross the bridge on the left side of Chamonix-Mont-Blanc station and reach the Montenvers Mer de Glace station. Once you see the charming red train waiting there, you know you have arrived at the right place.
Built in 1909, the Chamonix-Montenvers railway is a historic mountain railway that has been carrying visitors toward the glacier for more than a century. The route offers incredible views throughout the entire ride, making the journey itself just as memorable as the destination.
Before boarding the train, you can see the original locomotive from the early days of the railway at the station.
The train departs every 30 minutes, and while waiting, the surrounding area offers plenty of opportunities for beautiful photographs. If you want the best views during the ride, I recommend choosing a seat on the left side of the train.
Children under 5 years old can travel for free and children under 14 are eligible for child tickets.
The station is generally open between 10 a.m. and 4:30 p.m., although opening hours can vary depending on the season and weather conditions.
After approximately 25 minutes of climbing through the mountains, you arrive at Gare du Montenvers, located at an altitude of 1,913 meters (6,276 feet).
As the train approaches the station, the first views of the glacier begin to appear. If you are sitting on the left side, you will also be rewarded with beautiful views of waterfalls cascading down the mountain slopes. We visited in spring, which may have been the reason the waterfalls were especially impressive. I can only imagine how magical the snowy landscapes must be during winter.
At the top, there are two cafés. One sits slightly below the station with beautiful glacier views, while the other welcomes you right as you step off the train. It is the perfect place to enjoy a coffee break with delicious desserts, mountain-fruit macarons and small treats.
The name “Sea of Ice” might make you imagine an endless blue ocean, but this place is unlike any sea you have ever seen.
The Mer de Glace is France’s largest glacier – a vast river of ice created by centuries of accumulated snow slowly compressing and flowing through the valley.
Located about 7 kilometers (4.35 miles) north of Mont Blanc, this incredible glacier stretches approximately 7.5 kilometers (4.66 miles) and reaches depths of around 200 meters (656 feet).
The story behind its name makes the experience even more fascinating.
In 1741, two English explorers arrived here for the first time and looked down from the mountainside. What they saw reminded them of a stormy sea that had suddenly frozen in place: a massive, uneven landscape of waves and textures carved entirely from ice.
They named it Mer de Glace, meaning “Sea of Ice” in French.
Of course, this is not a sea where you can sail. Instead, it is a frozen river where time appears to have stopped – a place where the powerful and delicate sides of nature exist together in shades of white and blue.
Unfortunately, the glacier has dramatically changed over the years. Once, enormous walls of ice reached much higher toward the panoramic viewpoints, but climate change has caused the glacier to retreat significantly. Some impressive sections of ice can still be seen today, offering a powerful reminder of how fragile these natural wonders are.
At the lower section of the glacier, visitors can explore the famous Grotte de Glace, a real ice cave carved directly into the glacier.
To reach the cave, you first take a cable car down from the station. The ride takes only about two minutes and brings you to the beginning of the staircase leading toward the entrance.
From there, you need to walk down approximately 480 steps before reaching the cave.
Inside, you are welcomed by incredible ice formations and a completely different world hidden beneath the glacier. Visitors can also discover interesting information about glaciers and their formation along the way.
Unfortunately, during our visit, the cable car and ice cave were closed, so we could not experience this part of the journey ourselves. However, I wanted to share the details I had researched beforehand, as it is definitely something worth adding to your itinerary.
In Chamonix and throughout the Alps, May is considered an in-between season. The ski season has ended, but the summer season has not fully begun yet. This period is called Intersaison and many cable cars undergo annual maintenance during this time.
The same situation can occur in November. Before planning your visit, it is always a good idea to check the official opening dates of the train and cable cars.
Also, keep in mind that temperatures at Montenvers can be much cooler than in Chamonix town center, depending on the season.
Chamonix became much more than a winter destination for me. It transformed into a place that captured my heart in every season – a destination I continue to dream about returning to.
Among all the experiences on our pre-trip list, the historic red train was one of the most exciting. Although we could not reach the summit of Mont Blanc with our 4-year-old son due to the altitude, this alternative opened the door to an equally unforgettable adventure.
The Train du Montenvers carried us through breathtaking Alpine scenery, winding between mountains like a scene from a movie. And at the end of this beautiful journey, the 1,740-year-old Sea of Ice and the mysterious glacier cave revealed themselves as the greatest surprise waiting for us.
Celebrating our son’s fourth birthday in such a magical place gave us memories that we will treasure for a lifetime.
