What began as an idea to explore the world's longest beach turned into a fabulous tour of beautiful tropical green, pastoral landscapes criss-crossed by rivers, wonderful cuisine and an exciting shopping scene.
I arrived in Dhaka immediately after Qurban Bayram, also known as Eid al-Adha, to escape the megacity as quickly as possible to the serene coast of Cox's Bazar in the southeast.
Lo and behold, despite Dhaka's image as a traffic-clogged place, I mostly encountered clear roads. Cars zipped by in Banani and Gulshan, two of Dhaka's top neighborhoods and battery-powered cycle rickshaws ran smoothly. These rickshaws, which were previously pedal-driven, enjoy a kind of heritage status in the metropolis of 23 million.
So, what happened to the traffic congestion Dhaka residents always complain about?
"You will see when you return from your beach holiday. Half of Dhaka is empty because of the Eid holiday," a Bangladeshi friend told me.
It was due to holiday demand that I struggled to book a beach hotel in Cox's Bazar in time. Combined with the weekend, it became an extended Eid holiday, so it dawned on me that I would have to cool my heels in Dhaka for a couple of days more.
I got busy exploring the modern neighborhoods as well as Old Dhaka. Despite "half of Dhaka" being empty, the city's famous shopping haven – comprising New Market, New Super Market, Chandni Chowk and Gausia Market – was full of people. It is a shop-till-you-drop scenario.
Shops and stalls in this area offer a wide range of products, including household items, garments, shoes, gifts, electronics, jewelry and books. However, eateries offering tasty quick meals and refreshments in the area will make sure your energy levels do not drop.
Dhaka's major shopping options include Bashundhara City Mall, Jamuna Future Park (the largest mall in Bangladesh), Police Plaza Concord Shopping Mall and Pink City Shopping Complex in Gulshan. If you are not flying directly from abroad to Cox's Bazar, then it is a good idea to travel light and buy clothes in Dhaka. Bangladesh is the world's largest apparel exporter after China and has an extensive variety of clothing in its domestic market.
I also used the extra time I had in Dhaka to visit the majestic heritage site of Ahsan Manzil, where Dhaka's erstwhile nawabs lived, Panam Nagar's abandoned settlement and the Taj Mahal imitation near Sonargaon, a historic city about 35 kilometers (21.7 miles) from the capital.
As the new week began (Sunday is the first day of the week in Bangladesh), those who had left to celebrate Eid in their hometowns began to return. Traffic in Dhaka got heavier, but I was in a lighter mood, having finally found a hotel in Cox's Bazar's popular hotel and motel zone.
I traveled there on a luxury bus, with the journey through the pleasant tropical green taking more than 10 hours to cover a distance of 390 kilometers (242.34 miles). My hotel was within easy walking distance from Laboni beach. The sandy stretch between Laboni and Kolatoli beach, with Sugandha placed in the middle, is highly popular. The entire zone is designed to cater to tourists of every budget.
You can rent deck chairs to relax on the beach if you do not walk or dip your feet in the surf. Tender coconuts with high water content are readily available throughout Bangladesh, and they appear to be the freshest in the coastal regions.
Whether at hotel restaurants or in the market, you'll find flavorful dishes showcasing local ingredients.
The Jol Torongo hotel on Laboni beach is an exciting place for Bangladeshi and Asian cuisine. Its large Bay View and Bay Terrace restaurants offer sea views and the grill shop is right next to the beach for barbecue lovers.
One of the meals I enjoyed most was lunch at Palongki restaurant. Palongki Inani lives up to its reputation of being an "authentic Bengali food restaurant." My family and I ordered the curries (fish, beef and chicken) along with rice and the "Ashtobhuja" platter, which consists of eight types of bharta (a mashed dish) and bhaji (a vegetable dish), as suggested by restaurant manager Adnan Kabir.
Jalebi and rasgulla (a dumpling dipped in syrup), or roshogolla, are Bengali sweets, but they tasted superb at this place. It was situated in a wonderful setting, with only the road separating the dining area from the sea.
Jafar, whose "CNG" (a motorized rickshaw) we had hired from Cox's Bazar, seemed to know all the interesting places in the area, and the restaurant was his best recommendation.
Adnan also informed me that Palongki (also known as Palongkee) is an old name for Cox's Bazar, which is named after Capt. Hiram Cox, an officer of the British East India Company. A market was established and named after Cox to honour him for his work in refugee rehabilitation during that time, according to information on the Bangladesh Tourism Board website.
While Hiram Cox lived in the 18th century, Cox's Bazar is bravely tackling one of the biggest contemporary refugee problems. The region bordering Myanmar hosts a million refugees of the Rohingya ethnic community who have fled a campaign of genocide and ethnic cleansing in Myanmar.
Therefore, Cox's Bazar is regularly in the news owing to developments related to the Rohingya humanitarian crisis. Various high-profile visits have highlighted the issue globally. Turkish first lady Emine Erdoğan visited in 2017 and U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres was there in March 2025 on a mission of solidarity during the holy month of Ramadan.
This region, renowned for its stunning beauty, deserves wider publicity, particularly for its numerous tourist attractions.
The 30 kilometers I traveled, mostly along the coast, between Cox's Bazar and Inani Beach, were dotted with secluded resorts and busy picnic spots amid empty sandy stretches. On one side was the alluring sea and on the other, verdant tropical vegetation. I saw some parasailing points along the way.
There were lovely sampan boats lined up in rows in specific locations. These traditional wooden boats pay homage to Bangladesh's maritime heritage.
Due to the monsoon season, some excursions were suspended, the hotel's tour desk informed me. I wanted to go on a day trip to St. Martin's Island, Bangladesh's only coral island in the Bay of Bengal. It is almost 10 kilometers from Teknaf on the mainland. Traveling to Teknaf itself, approximately 80 kilometers from Cox's Bazar, means covering a significant portion of the longest beach and enjoying more of the region's incredible scenery.
